Translate to :
You might have to pinch yourself upon arriving in Berastagi: the town is too busy with daily life to pounce on tourists. What a blissful relief from the guide overload you’ll find elsewhere in Sumatra.
Beyond the town are the lush green fields of the Karo Highlands, dominated by two volcanoes: Gunung Sinabung to the west and the smoking Gunung Sibayak to the north. These volcanoes are a day hike apiece, making them two of Sumatra’s most accessible volcanoes, and the primary reason why tourists get off the bus in the first place.
Berastagi is at an altitude of 1300m, and the climate is deliciously cool, sometimes even cold.
Orientation
Berastagi is essentially a one-street town spread along Jl Veteran. The colorful Tugu Perjuangan (Combat Memorial), commemorating the Bataks’ struggle against the Dutch in the 1800s, marks the center of town. The hill to the northwest of town is Bukit Gundaling, a popular picnic spot.
Information
BNI bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Veteran) With ATMs.
BRI bank (Bank Rakyat Indonesia; Jl Veteran) With ATMs.
Post office (Jl Veteran) Near the memorial at the northern end of the street.
PT Pesiar Tour & Travel (Jl Veteran) Can book plane tickets.
Telkom wartel (Jl Veteran) Near the memorial at the northern end of the street is a 24-hour Telkom wartel, which has a Home Country Direct phone and internet.
Sights & Activities
Berastagi is under-utilised as an escape from Indonesia’s intensity. Most people spend a couple of days here hiking and then tramp south to Danau Toba. But there is a lot of unhindered wandering you can do on foot and motorbike.
Trails on both volcanoes are neither clearly marked nor well maintained and it is easy to get lost or lose your footing. During the wet season, paths can be extremely slippery or even washed out. The weather is variable and views from either mountain are far from guaranteed. Be prepared for abrupt weather changes (fog, cold temperatures and rain can sneak up during a clear day). Bring supplies such as food, drink, rain gear and a torch, in case you get caught out after dark.
GUNUNG SIBAYAK
At 2094m, Gunung Sibayak is probably the most accessible of Indonesia’s volcanoes.
If you’ve got a companion, the hike can be done without a guide. If traveling alone, it is recommended to hire a guide through the guesthouses. The hike can be done in five hours and you should set out as early as possible.
There are three ways to tackle the climb, depending on your energy level. The easiest way is to take the track that starts to the northwest of town, a 10-minute walk past the Sibayak Multinational Resthouse. Take the left-hand path beside the entrance fee hut. From here it’s 7km (about three hours) to the top and fairly easy to follow. Finding the path down is a little tricky. When you reach the crater, turn 90 degrees to the right (anticlockwise), climb up to the rim and start looking for the stone steps down the other side of the mountain.
If you can’t find the steps, you can also go back the way you came.
On the descent you can stop off at the hot springs (there is admission), a short ride from Semangat Gunung on the road back to Berastagi.
Alternatively, you can catch a local bus to Semangat Gunung at the base of the volcano, from where it’s a two-hour climb to the summit. There are steps part of the way but the track is narrower and in poorer condition than the one from Berastagi.
The longest option is to trek through the jungle from Air Terjun Panorama; this waterfall is on the Medan road, about 5km north of Berastagi. Allow at least five hours for this walk.
On weekends, day-trippers from Medan huff and puff their way to the top. If Asian hikers amuse you, then you’ll be in for a treat.
Before setting out, pick up a map from Wisma Sibayak ( opposite ) in Berastagi and peruse the guest-book for comments and warnings about the hike.
GUNUNG SINABUNG
This peak, at 2450m, is considerably higher than Sibayak, with even more-stunning views from the top. Be warned, though, that the clouds love mingling with the summit and can often obscure the vista.
Most guesthouses recommend taking a guide, as hikers have gotten lost and died. The path up the mountain from Danau Kawar is fairly well trodden by locals, but relying on a guide takes the guesswork out of timing your return to town or reading changing weather conditions. The climb takes six to eight hours depending on your skill and the descent route.
To reach the trail-head, take an opelet to Danau Kawar (one hour). The is entrance fee. There is a scenic campground surrounding Danau Kawar if you’re traveling with gear.
TRADITIONAL VILLAGES
There are some fine examples of traditional Karo Batak architecture in the villages around Berastagi. Most of the houses are no more than 60 years old - or possibly 100, but certainly not 400, as claimed by
some guides.
Guesthouses in Berastagi can arrange guides who will be able to give cultural overviews of the Karo.
Kampung Peceren
On the northern outskirts of Berastagi, this village has a cluster of traditional houses, which are still occupied. Any opelet heading north can drop you there. There’s entry fee to the village.
Lingga
The best-known and most visited of these villages is Lingga (There is admission), a few kilometers northwest of Kabanjahe. There are about a dozen traditional houses with characteristic horned roofs. Some, such as the rumah rajah (king’s house), are occupied and in good condition; others, including the sapo ganjang (the house for unmarried, young men), have almost collapsed.
There are regular opelet to Lingga from Kabanjahe.
Dokan
The charming little village of Dokan is approximately 16km south of Kabanjahe. Traditional houses are still in the majority and most are in good condition. Entry is by donation and you can get here by the occasional direct opelet from Kabanjahe.
AIR TERJUN SIPISO-PISO
These narrow but impressive falls cascade 120m down to the north end of Danau Toba, 24km from Kabanjahe and about 300m from the main road. It is fairly easy to get here by yourself; take a bus from Kabanjahe to Merek and then walk or hitch a ride on a motorbike.
Sleeping
Jl Veteran sees extremely heavy traffic and many rooms in the center of town are very noisy. Berastagi’s best options are all sister properties of the Sibayak empire. Keep in mind that a hot shower might be a happy splurge after a long hike.
BUDGET
Wisma Sibayak (Jl Udara 1) Tidy and spacious rooms in the two-storey building have great views but lots of street noise. The restaurant is the closest Berastagi comes to a travelers haunt, with aging comment books and knowledgeable staff.
Losmen Sibayak Guesthouse (Jl Veteran 119) Nice cheapish with a lot of Indonesian personality comprise the Sibayak enterprise’s budget place.
Wisma Sunrise View (Jl Kaliaga) Perched on a little hill, Sunrise earns its namesake view and is just far enough outside of town to be a convenient stroll. Alternatively, you can catch a blue ‘Bayu’ opelet.
Sibayak Multinational Resthouse (Jl Pendidikan 93) Away from the town center, Multinational has a manicured garden and straightforward rooms with hot shower. On weekends, Indonesian families stretch their lungs in the serene setting. The hotel is a short opelet ride north of town on the road to Gunung Sibayak.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
A number of three- and four-star hotels appeal to out-of-towners, but their price tags don’t match their standards.
Berastagi Cottages (Jl Gundaling) Another quiet, out-of-town possibility with a range of stylish rooms. There are great garden views.
Hotel International Sibayak (Jl Merdeka) Wooden floors, generous beds, read-the-newspaper toilets: there’s a lot right about the International, except the price. If you can eek out a discount, then you’ll earn a shiny frugal star. The hotel is on the road to Bukit Gundaling.
Eating & Drinking
The rich volcanic soils of the surrounding countryside supply much of North Sumatra’s produce, which passes through Berastagi’s colourful produce and fruit markets. Passionfruit is a local speciality, as is marquisa Bandung, a large, sweet, yellow-skinned fruit; and the marquisa asam manis, a purple-skinned fruit, makes delicious drinks.
Most of the budget hotels have restaurants, but head into town for more diversity. Along Jl Veteran there are a variety of evening food stalls, as well as simple restaurants specializing in Tionghoa (Chinese food). Because this is a Christian community, you’ll see a lot of babi (pork) on the menu. Another local favorite is pisang goreng (fried banana).
Cafe Raymond (Jl Veteran 49) Berastagi’s local bohemians hang out at Café Raymond, a roots-reggae homage, serving fruit juices, beer and Western food.
Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (Jl Veteran) is conveniently located near the center of town. You can also catch buses to Medan (2½ hours), anywhere along the main street; buses run to and from Medan between 6am and 8pm.
To reach Danau Toba without backtracking through Medan, catch an opelet to Kabanjahe (20 minutes) and change to a bus for Pematang Siantar (3 hours), then connect with a Parapat-bound bus (1½ hours).
It is a little bit of a pain but gets there in time.
Berastagi is the southern approach for visits to Gunung Leuser National Park. To reach the park, catch a bus to Kutacane (5 hours).
Getting Around
Opelet to the surrounding villages leave from the bus terminal. They run every few minutes between Berastagi and Kabanjahe, the major population and transport center of the highlands. Local opelet are most easily waved down from the clock tower in town.
