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As long as the peace lasts, the interior of Aceh is ripe for off-the-path picking. This is coffee country, cool and mountainous with spectacular vistas and the odd spotting of wild jungle critters. The road from Takengon to Blangkejeran, the main towns of the Gayo Highlands, is astoundingly picturesque and can be used as an alternative route to or from Berastagi.
The Gayo, who number about 250,000, lived an isolated existence until the advent of modern roads and transport. Like the neighbouring Acehnese, the Gayo are strict Muslims and were renowned for their fierce resistance to Dutch rule.
Before building an itinerary around the Gayo Highlands, watch the press for any unsettling developments in the peace accord. It is probably safe to assume that no news is good news.
Takengon
Takengon is the largest town in the highlands, but retains a sleepy charm, with a spectacular setting and refreshing climate. The town is built on the shores of Danau Laut Tawar, a 26km-long stretch of water, surrounded by steep hills rising to volcanic peaks. Gunung Geureundong, to the north, rises 2855m.
Much of the town centre dates from the beginning of the 20th century, when the town was used as a Dutch base.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
All of the action is in the centre of town on Jl Lebe Kadir. You’ll find the post office, Telkom wartel, police station and Mesjid Raya here. You can change US dollars (cash and travellers cheques) at BRI bank (Bank Rakyat Indonesia; Jl Yos Sudarso).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Takengon’s main attractions are all natural. Admire the views, cruise around the lake in a perahu (dugout canoe) or explore caves, waterfalls and hot springs.
The best cave is Loyang Koro (Buffalo Caves), 6km from town, with some interesting stalagmites and plenty of bats. In the village of Kebayakan, just north of town, you can see the sole attraction made by hu- mans in the area: the intricately carved house of the region’s last traditional ruler. Further on, at Simpang Balik, about 15km north of Takengon, the sulphurous hot spring is said to cure skin diseases.
In the week following Independence Day (17 August), Takengon hosts a regional horse -racing carnival, held at the track to the west of town. It’s a highly spirited affair, with 12-year-old jockeys from all over the highlands riding bareback in the hope of glory.
SLEEPING & EATING
Hotel Buntu Kubu (Jl Malem Dewa) This place has a magnificent view
over the lake. The hotel has a varied history: it was a former Dutch official residence, museum and Indonesian military post.
Hotel Renggali (Jl Bintang) Perched on the lakeside 2km out of town, Renggali is set in beautiful gardens and has some hit-and-miss rooms.
Padang food and Chinese-style noodle dishes can be found all along Jl Lebe Kadir, Jl Pasar Inpres and around the bus terminal.
Delicious fresh Gayo coffee is available pretty much everywhere. A local speciality is kopi telor kocok - a raw egg and sugar creamed together in a glass and topped up with coffee.
SHOPPING
Takengon is the place to buy traditional-style Gayo/Alas tapestry, which is made into clothes, belts, purses and cushion covers. At the market, it’s sometimes possible to buy highly decorated engraved pottery called ke-unire, which is used in wedding ceremonies.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are two buses a day to Medan: an economy bus (13 hours) and a ‘deluxe’ air-con bus (11 hours). Other destinations include Banda Aceh (8 hours).
Heading south, there are regular buses to Blangkejeran (7 hours) and Gurah/Ketambe (9 hours). You would connect through these towns to reach Berastagi.
GETTING AROUND
Labi labi leave from the southern end of Jl Baleatu. Perahu for lake cruising can be hired at the pier at the end of Jl Laut Tawar.
Blangkejeran
Blangkejeran is the main town of the remote southern highlands. The area is recognized as the Gayo heartland and it’s possible to hire guides to take you out to some of the smaller villages. Accommodation is available in several small guesthouses. There are regular buses north to Takengon and south to Gurah and Kutacane.
