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Most people only stay a night and grab transport out the next day. The city’s major attraction is a graveyard of colonial buildings centered around Kesawan Square. For urban junkies, Medan has lots of confusing public transport to conquer.
HISTORY
Medan has had several major incarnations. The plains were once used as a battlefield between the kingdoms of Aceh and Deli (the word medan translates as ‘field’ or ‘battlefield’) from the end of the 16th century to the early 17th century.
Once the Dutch were kicked out, Medan tossed off its starched uniform and grew as it pleased. A wealthy merchant class, mainly of ethnic Chinese, dominates the cosmopolitan side of town, while a handful of ethnic tribes from all over Sumatra make do in the run-down remainder. Animosity towards the Chinese erupted into violent rioting on Medan’s streets on several occasions during the 1990s.
ORIENTATION
The sprawling city of Medan radiates from the confluence of the Sungai Deli and Babura. Most backpackers head to the neighborhood surrounding Mesjid Raya on Jl Sisingamangaraja (often abbreviated as ‘SM Raja’) for accommodation. North of this area is the city center, organized around Jl Pandu and Jl Pemuda. The historic district occupies Jl Ahmad Yani around Lapangan Merdeka (Freedom Square). The manicured part of town is Polonia, west of Sungai Deli following the spine of Jl Imam Bonjol. Little India is sandwiched between Jl H Zainal Arifin, Jl Imam Bonjol and Jl Cik Ditiro.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Finding English reading material in Sumatra is a hassle and Medan’s slim pickings is a bumper crop compared to other stops on the road.
Gramedia bookshop Medan Mall (Jl Gajah Mada); Sun Plaza (Jl H Zainul Arifin) Good for maps and paperbacks.
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet access is available at most of the large shopping plazas and costs 5000Rp per hour.
MEDICAL SERVICES
For an ambulance, dial 118
Rumah Sakit Gleneagles (Jl Listrik 6)
The best hospital in the city, with a 24-hour walk-in clinic and pharmacy, as well as English-speaking doctors and specialists.
MONEY
Medan has branches of just about every bank operating in Indonesia. Most banks are headquartered along the junction of Jl Diponegoro and Jl H Zainal Arifin.
Bank Danamon (JL Pemuda)
Bank Indonesia (Jl Balai Kota)
BCA bank (Bank Central Asia; Jl H Zainal Arifin)
BNI bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Pemuda)
There are ATMs all over the city. Try the following:
ATM (Yuki Plaza, Jl SM Raja)
ATM (Hotel Garuda Plaza, Jl SM Raja)
Shop around, as exchange rates can differ significantly from bank to bank. Medan typically offers the best rates on the island.
Outside of banking hours, there are moneychangers on the corner of Jl Sipiso-Piso and Jl SM Raja, as well as at travel agencies on Jl Katamso.
POST
Main post office (Jl Bukit Barisan; h8am-6pm) Located in an old Dutch building on the main square; fax, photocopy and parcel services are available.
TELEPHONE
International calls can be made at several wartel around town. The following have Home Country Direct phones:
Hotel Danau Toba International (Jl Imam Bonjol 17)
Novotel Soechi Medan (Jl Cirebon 76A)
TOURIST INFORMATION
There is an information desk at the domestic arrivals terminal at the airport.
North Sumatra Tourist Office (Jl Ahmad Yani 107; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Brochures, maps and basic information.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Jl Katamso is packed with travel agencies that handle air tickets and ferry tickets.
Perdana Express (Jl Katamso 35C) Sells Pelni and Penang ferry tickets.
Sukma Medan (Jl SM Raja 92A) Sells Penang ferry tickets
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Use big-city common sense in Medan. Watch your bags, as snatch thieves are prevalent. To keep your sanity, remember that you don’t have to speak to everyone who speaks to you. It is common practice in Indonesia for becak drivers to call out to pedestrians to solicit business. You’ll get a ‘Hello mister’ or even a ‘Hello, you like cigarette?’ every few feet, but not responding is perfectly acceptable if you don’t want to go anywhere. Although this may seem rude, in Sumatra a response is an invitation.
Sights
ISTANA MAIMOON
The crumbling Maimoon Palace (Jl Katamso; admission by donation; h8am-5pm) was built by the sultan of Deli in 1888. The building is badly in need of restoration and is a good introduction to what all of Sumatra looks like.
MESJID RAYA
Just around the corner from the palace is the unusual black-domed Grand Mosque (cnr Jl Mesjid Raya & SM Raja; admission by donation; h9am-5pm, except prayer times), which was commissioned by the sultan in 1906. The Moroccan-style building has ornate carvings, Italian marble and stained glass from China.
Dress modestly when visiting the mosque - women are asked to cover their heads with the scarves provided.
MUSEUMS
The Museum of North Sumatra (Jl HM Joni 51; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun) has an extensive collection of dogeared artifacts covering North Sumatran history and culture and some fine stone carvings from Nias.
Bukit Barisan Military Museum (Jl H Zainal Arifin 8; admission by donation; h8am-1pm Mon-Thu & Sat), near the Hotel Danau Toba International, has a small collection of weapons, photos and memorabilia from WWII, the War of Independence and the Sumatran rebellion of 1958.
COLONIAL MEDAN
Ghosts of Medan’s colonial mercantile past are still visible along Jl Ahmad Yani from JI Palang Merah north to Lapangan Merdeka.
Some are still stately relics, while others have been gutted and turned into parking garages, demonstrating the enduring friendship between Indonesia and its former coloniser.
Tjong A Fie Mansion (closed to public) is the former residence of a famous Chinese merchant; his home, which mixes Victorian and Chinese styles, is intentionally similar to his cousin’s (Cheong Fatt Tze) home in Penang. Across the street is Tip Top Restaurant (see opposite) , an historic spot for sipping colonial nostalgia. Further north is Lapangan Merdeka, a former parade ground surrounded by handsome Art Deco buildings, such as the Bank Indonesia, Balai Kota (Town Hall) and the post office.
SLEEPING
Medan’s budget options aren’t the best value in Sumatra and you’ll get more for your money in the midrange category. The majority of accommodation is on or near Jl SM Raja.
BUDGET
Sarah’s Guest House (Jl Pertama 12) A friendly, family-run place, tucked away on a quiet road.
Hotel Zakia (Jl Sipiso-Piso 12) Most backpackers’ default choice, Zakia seems great until you’ve been feasted on by bedbugs.
Hotel Alamanda (Jl SM Raja 59/81A) Not much going for it but location.
Hotel Raya (Jl RH Juanda 53) A bit of an improvement from the other SM Raja cheapies.
JJ’s Guesthouse (Jl Suryo 18) In an old Dutch villa, JJ’s has tidy boarding house-style rooms run by a mannerly Indonesian woman. The guesthouse is a quick becak ride to/from the airport (5000Rp), but they have a terrible time finding the place. It’s across the street from the KFC and behind Hotel Pardede.
Rates include breakfast and lots of chitchat.
MIDRANGE
Ibunda Hotel (Jl SM Raja 31) A cheery spot, with minty green walls and new tiled baths.
Hotel Sumatera (Jl SM Raja 35) Add another zero to the price tag and rooms in Medan start to look a lot better.
Hotel Garuda Citra (Jl SM Raja 27) The rooms are better than the common space would suggest.
Hotel Danau Toba International (Jl Imam Bonjol 17) A mini resort near the airport, Danau Toba International is starting to show its age, but Sumatra isn’t youth-obsessed.
TOP END
Medan’s best hotels all have the standard top-end facilities you’d expect such as fitness centres, swimming pools and 24-hour room service.
Hotel Garuda Plaza (Jl SM Raja 18) Almost hip, Garuda Plaza is Medan’s homage to Jakarta, with modern, corporate accents.
Hotel Deli River (Jl Raya Namorambe 129) Outside the city chaos, this family-run hotel is shaded by fruit trees and overlooks the Deli River. The hotel provides free transfers from the airport and rates include breakfast.
Polonia Hotel (Jl Jend Sudirman 14) Close to the airport, in the aristocratic section of Medan.
Some other international-standard hotels are:
Novotel Soechi Medan ( Jl Cirebon 76A)
Best Western Hotel Asean International (cnr Jl Gatot Subroto & Glugur bypass)
Inna Dharma Deli (JI Balai Kota 2) Occupies the site of a colonial hotel, supposedly where Mata Hari was once bedded.
EATING
Medan has the most varied selection of cuisines in Sumatra, from basic Malay-style mie (noodle) and nasi (rice) joints, to top-class hotel restaurants.
For Chinese food, let your tummy do a tour of Medan’s night market (Pasar Malam; Jl Semarang), east of the railway line, off Jl Pandu.
Lots of simple warungs occupy the front courtyards of the houses in the little lanes around Mesjid Raya; the menu is on display with a few pre-made curries, coffee, tea and sometimes juices.
Majestik Bakery & Cafe (Jl SM Raja 71) Keep the munchies at bay during a long bus ride with sweets from this super-sized bakery.
Rumah Makan Famili (Jl SM Raja 31) A well-known Padang spot, on the ground floor of Ibunda Hotel, for beef rendang with duck egg. The restaurant is a refreshing space drowning out traffic with an indoor waterfall and lots of high-flying businessmen meeting over lunch. You can also get the wacky meats: bowel, brain or heart simmered in coconut milk.
Rumah Makan Sibolga (Jl RH Juanda 65) Near the travellers haunt, Sibolga can take good care of timid foreigners who pull up a chair.
Taman Rekreasi Seri Deli (Jl SM Raja) For basic Malay food, this venue, opposite the Mesjid Raya, is a slightly upmarket approach to stall dining. But the keropok (cracker) sellers, blind beggars and spoon players might find you more of an oddity than vice versa.
Bollywood Food Centre (Jl Muara Takus 7) Lip-smacking Indian-style curries are a family affair at this blindingly bright restaurant in Little India (Kampung Keling). It also serves cold Bintang. Malay-Indian roti shops are located nearby.
Sumatera Vegetarian Restaurant (Jl Gatot Subroto 35) For vegetarians, this is the place to go when you just can’t face another gado gado (dish with mixed vegetables and coconut sauce).
Tip Top Restaurant (Jl Ahmad Yani 92) Only the prices have changed at this old colonial relic, great for a drink of bygone imperialism. The menu, with type-writer font and 1950s dishes, should be en-shrined in a museum rather than used to sate hunger.
Merdeka Walk (Lapangan Merdeka, Jl Balai Kota; h5-11pm) Inspired by Singapore’s alfresco dining, this collection of outdoor cafés occupies Lapangan Merdeka and is anchored by one of the shiniest McDonald’s you’ll see outside the Soviet bloc.
Corner Café Raya (cnr Jl SM Raja & Sipiso-Piso 1; h24hrs) A Western expat and his Indonesian wife run this home-away-from-home café, complete with breakfast fry-ups, cold beer, international TV and travellers’ advice. There’s talk of opening up some of the upstairs rooms for rent.
Pasar Ramai (Ramani Market; Jl Thamrin) The main fruit market, next to Thamrin Plaza, is a profusion of colour and smells, and has an impressive selection of local and imported tropical fruit.
Pasar Buah Berastagi (Berastagi Fruit Market; Jl Kol Sugiono) An upmarket, air-con shop more conveniently located to fruit lovers.
Sun Plaza (cnr Jl Ainul Arifin & Diponegoro) The whole city have flipped their wristwatches over this shiny new shopping center, where there’s a, get this, Starbucks, pan-Asian food court, European-style restaurants and a startling amount of affluence.
SHOPPING
Medan has a number of interesting arts and crafts shops, particularly along Jl Ahmad Yani. Toko Asli (No 62), Toko Rufino (No 56) and Toko Bali Arts (No 68) all have selections of antique weaving, Dutch pottery and carvings.
Clothes, shoes, jewelery, electrical goods and cosmetics can be found at any of Medan’s multilevel shopping centers. Most also have well-stocked supermarkets.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Medan’s Polonia Airport is 2km south of the city centre. Remember that there is an airport tax for departing flights.
There are daily international flights from Medan to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang. Domestic flights connect Medan to Jakarta, Banda Aceh, Pekanbaru, Padang, Batam, Pontianak and Gunung Sitoli. See the Sumatra Airfares map for sample fares.
The following airlines have offices in Medan and serve the destinations as listed:
Adam Air (Hotel Garuda Plaza, Jl SM Raja 18) Banda Aceh, Jakarta, Penang.
Air Asia (Jl SM Raja 19) Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur.
Garuda (Garuda Indonesia) Jl Monginsidi 340 (Jl Monginsidi 340); Jl Balai Kota 2 (Inna Dharma Deli, Jl Balai Kota 2) Jakarta, Banda Aceh.
Jatayu Airlines (Jl Katamso 62A) Banda Aceh, Ipoh, Jakarta, Lhokseumawe, Padang, Penang, Surabaya.
Karitika Air (Jl Katamso 37) Banda Aceh, Batam.
Malaysian Airlines (Hotel Danau Toba International, Jl Imam Bonjol 17) Kuala Lumpur, Penang.
Merpati (Merpati Nusantara Airlines; Jl Katamso 219) Batam, Gunung Sitoli, Jakarta, Palembang, Pekanbaru, Pontianak.
Silk Air (Hotel Polonia, Jl Sudirman 14) Singapore.
SMAC (Jl Imam Bonjol 59) Simeulue, Gunung Sitoli.
Sriwijaya Air (Jl Katamso 29) Pekanbaru.
BOAT
High-speed ferries (140/210 Malaysian ringgit one way/return; five hours; 10am daily) depart from the port of Belawan, 26km from Medan, to the Malaysian city of Penang.
Tickets can be bought from agents on Jl Katamso or Jl SM Raja. Buses depart Medan at 8am.
Pelni ships sail to Jakarta and Batam. The Pelni office (Jl Krakatau 17A) is 8km north of the city center, but it is much easier to buy tickets and check schedules from the agencies on Jl Katamso.
BUS
There are two major bus terminals in Medan: Amplas, serving southern destinations, and Pinang Baris, serving northern destinations. For long-distance travel, most people deal directly with the bus ticketing offices located outside of the terminals.
Amplas bus terminal is 6.5km south of the city center along Jl SM Raja. Almost any opelet heading south on Jl SM Raja will get you to Amplas. Bus ticket offices line the street nearby at Km 6 and include the following:
ANS, Serves Bukittinggi (air-con/executive, 20 hours).
ALS, Also serves Bukittinggi – same details as ANS.
Pelangi, Runs buses to Pekanbaru (air-con/super-executive, 12 hours) and Banda Aceh (air-con/executive, 13 hours).
Kurnia (Jl SM Raja, Km 6) Runs buses to Jambi (air-con, 24 hours) and Palembang (36 hours).
There are frequent public buses to Parapat (five hours), the jumping-off point to Danau Toba. Minibuses also leave from Tobali Tour & Travel (Jl SM Raja 79C).
Pinang Baris bus terminal (Jl Gatot Subroto), 10km west of the city center, serves northern destinations. Get there by taxi or by opelet 24, 37 or 64.
There are frequent public buses to both Bukit Lawang (three hours) and Berastagi (two hours) every half-hour between 5.30am and 6pm.
Although there are buses to Banda Aceh from here, it is easier to get to the Pelangi ticket agent near Amplas.
A minibus departs at 8pm daily for Singkil (10 hours), the departure point for boats to the Banyak Islands. Buses depart from Singkil Raya (Jl Bintan), past the caged bird warehouses. Take opelet 53 from Jl SM Raja to Medal Mall.
Car
Chauffeur-driven car rental can be arranged through most of the major hotels. National Car Rental (Deli Raya Hotel, Jl Balai Kota 2).
Train
Rail services are very limited, with just two trains a day to Tanjung Balai. There are four trains daily to Rantauparapat.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
It is cheaper and less of a hassle to sail past the throng of taxi drivers to the becak queue at the airport gate (becak aren’t allowed inside the airport).
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Medan’s got more opelet than you can shake a spoon player at.
