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The centre for transport, commerce and tourism in Central Papua is Pulau Biak (1898 sq km), scene of many horrific WWII battles between the Allies and Japanese. The island has a great deal to offer and is a wor- thy stopover, especially if you’re a WWII buff or into diving. Kota Biak is the principal centre, while Nabire (on the southern shore of Cenderawasih Bay) and Serui (on Pulau Yapen) are also appealing towns from which to explore the Teluk Cenderawasih region.
Kota Biak
Kota Biak is a relaxed town from which to explore attractions around Pulau Biak and the general Teluk Cenderawasih region. There is no accommodation elsewhere on the island, and transport is limited in the north, but most places of interest on Pulau Biak can be visited on day trips from the here.
Only one degree south of the equator, Biak is always hot and humid. So it’s a good idea to start your day early and hibernate like the locals between 1pm and 4pm (when a lot of shops and offices are closed anyway).
In mid-August, Pulau Biak’s Munara Festival features fire-walking, traditional dancing and boat races. Ask at the tourist office for more information.
ORIENTATION
Kota Biak is compact. A lot of what you’ll need is along Jl Ahmad Yani (which joins Jl Prof M Yamin from the airport), Jl Sudirman (which heads past the port) and Jl Imam Bonjol, all of which intersect at the Bank Mandiri building. The majority of places to stay and eat are around this area, but a few offices, as well as the taxi (minibus) terminal and main market, are a short taxi ride away.
INFORMATION
A surat jalan is not required to visit anywhere on Pulau Biak, but Kota Biak is a handy place to obtain one for Pulau Yapen and the Baliem Valley.
Bank Mandiri (cnr Jl Imam Bonjol & Jl Ahmad Yani) Offers the best rates for cash and travellers cheques, and a 24-hour ATM.
BNI bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Imam Bonjol 23) Has an ATM that accepts Visa and MasterCard.
diBiak.com (Jl Sudirman 4; h9am-9pm) Popular internet centre housing plenty of PCs in heavenly air-conditioned comfort.
Main post office (Jl Prof M Yamin 59; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) A short taxi ride (take a taxi marked ‘Ambroben’) along the road to the airport; has a poste restante service.
Police station (Jl Diponegoro) The friendly guys at the ‘intel’ section will need two photographs and an administrative fee of about 5000Rp to provide a surat jalan.
Rumah Sakit Umum (Jl Sri Wijaya) The general hospital is 2.5km northwest of Hotel Sinar Kayu.
Telkom (Jl Yos Sudarso 1; h24hr) The mammoth office is at the split in the road, 500m southeast of the Bank Mandiri building.
Tourist office (Jl Prof M Yamin 56; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Has helpful staff, just opposite the main post office. If you’re in town in mid-January, stop by to find out if anything’s on for Papua Tourism Week.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Cenderawasih Museum
This museum (Jl Sisingamangaraja) offers a dusty collection of shells, implements and WWII weapons, as well as a few Japanese war relics in the garden. Although touted by the local tourist office as a major attraction, this museum could be far better. If you’re interested, find the caretaker (who lives on the grounds) and slip him a donation to open it up.
Diving
The underwater attractions around Pulau Biak and Teluk Cenderawasih have the potential to compete with northern Sulawesi, with the added bonus of being cheaper and less overrun by tourists. However, some local fishermen blithely continue their practice of dynamite and cyanide fishing, so you may find spots that are slightly less stunning than others.
The diving industry in Biak is small but growing, and there’s nowhere else in Central Papua to organise diving/snorkeling trips or rent equipment. Biak Diving (Jl Ahmad Yani 39).
It also offers all-day snorkelling and sightseeing tours around Pulau Biak. Alternatively, you can just hire a snorkel, mask and fins.
Other Activities
Kota Biak is really the only base for organizing bird-watching tours between Sorong and Jayapura. Check out Biak’s two travel agencies for help with arranging regional tours. Independent guides who hang around the airport, like ecology-minded Matheus Rumbarar, can also customise bird-watching and island-hopping tours in the area.
Janggi Prima Tours & Travel (Jl Pramuka 5) This impressive one-man show offers a wide range of trekking, bird-watching and diving tours around Biak and Yapen islands. The manager speaks good English. PT Biak Paradise Tours & Travel (Hotel Arumbai, Jl Selat Makassar 3; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) The friendly manager Pak Benny speaks excellent English and is a valuable source of local information. He can arrange everything from bird-watching tours around the Biak island group to treks around Manokwari, the Baliem Valley and the Asmat region.
SLEEPING
Budget
Hotel Dahlia (Jl Selat Madura 6) This family-run affair offers nine rooms set around a semi-wild garden courtyard. It’s reasonably clean, conveniently located and prices include breakfast.
Hotel Sinar Kayu (Jl Sisingamangaraja 89) The many rooms here mean you’ll almost always find a place to sleep. But the cheap quarters are fanless with outside mandis, while the nicer air-con rooms have only squat toilets.
Hotel Maju (Jl Imam Bonjol 45) Still Biak’s best budget option, this place is often full. The rooms are smallish and nothing special, but they’re clean (the ones at the back are far quieter).
All rooms come with a simple breakfast.
Midrange & Top End
All places listed below offer rooms with private bathrooms, and all rates include breakfast (exception noted).
Hotel Irian Biak (Jl Prof M Yamin 4) Opposite the western side of the airport, this vast old place has lots of good-value, wood-floored rooms. The priciest real estate here is in the quiet oceanfront rooms, with private balconies and tiled floors.
Hotel Nirmala (Jl Selat Madura 13) Excellent value, with three meals and afternoon tea included in room rates, the clean and tidy rooms here have hot water and overlook a tidy courtyard that catches cool breezes.
Intsia Beach Hotel (Jl Monginsidi) Formerly the Titawaka, this comfortable, oceanfront spot is where Garuda crews choose to snooze. All rooms have patio seating, and the hotel is set around a small garden and gazebo. Rates include three home-cooked meals per day, afternoon tea and even airport transfers.
Hotel Marasi Biak (Jl Prof M Yamin) Across from the eastern end of the airport, the Marasi Biak is modern, clean and good value. Sniff around a few rooms before checking in, as some are severely musty. Rates include after noon tea and dinner, but for breakfast you’re on your bleary-eyed own.
Hotel Arumbai (Jl Selat Makassar 3) Biak’s topnotch option, the Arumbai has the only swimming pool on the island. Standard rooms come with cool marble floors and batik blankets, while superior rooms have bathtubs and carved wood furniture.
Other decent deals worth looking into:
Padaido Hotel (Jl Monginsidi 16) Also rents out a handful of immaculate, cheery little rooms.
Basana Inn (Jl Imam Bonjol 46A)
Hotel Mapia (Jl Ahmad Yani 23).
EATING
Barapen cuisine is food cooked under hot rocks, on which some of the braver (and possibly more intoxicated) guests attempt some impromptu fire-walking. To sample some traditional barapen cooking, you will have to be invited to a party in a village or arrange this through a local travel agency.
Padaido Café (Jl Monginsidi 16; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) With its large outdoor patio, it’s the only waterfront eatery in town. The friendly owners offer a few Western-style meals along with delish fish dishes.
Rumah Makan Rindu Alam (Jl Imam Bonjol 22; lunch & dinner) A cool, clean Padang place where the curries are spicy and the service fast and friendly.
Rumah Makan Nirwana (Jl Sudirman 22; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The spot for cold soft drinks, pastries and assorted kue-kue (cakes).
The following restaurants provide menus with items listed in English:
Rumah Makan 99 (Jl Imam Bonjol; lunch & dinner) Small and friendly place with an extensive menu.
Rumah Makan Umum Jakarta (Jl Imam Bonjol 10; lunch & dinner) As clean and charmless as the 99, serving Chinese and Indonesian meals.
The best of the cheap warungs are in and around the markets, Pasar Inpres (Jl Erlangga) and Pasar Lama (Jl Selat Makassar).
DRINKING
During the late afternoon, a drink in the seaview garden of Hotel Irian Biak is very pleasant indeed. Even better is a sunset Bintang on the outdoor terrace of Padaido Café - but don’t forget the mosquito repellent.
SHOPPING
There’s an art shop and two general markets:
Iriani Art Shop (Jl Imam Bonjol 40; h8am-2pm & 5-9pm) This wonderful shop carries an enticing selection of Papuan art, carvings and jewellery at reasonable fixed prices.
Pasar Lama (Jl Selat Makassar) This market sells locally made items such as batiks, carvings and souvenirs made from shells, as well as Asmat and Baliem carvings (most of which are authentic imitations).
Pasar Inpres (Jl Erlangga) Market next to the taxi/bus terminal, mainly selling food and clothing, if you need to stock up.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Biak is the major centre for air travel throughout Papua. Merpati flies a few times per week to Fak-Fak, Jayapura, Manokwari, Nabire, Serui, Sorong and Timika. The same airline also flies regularly to Makassar (on the way to Jakarta, Manado and Surabaya), as well as to Yemburwo in Pulau Numfor. Stop by the Merpati office (Jl Prof M Yamin; h8am-5pm), across the road from the airport, for current schedules.
Garuda (Jl Sudirman 3; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon & 5-9pm Sat & Sun) flies six times per week to Jakarta, Jayapura and Makassar; book tickets at its air-conditioned, computerised office.
Boat
Every two weeks, the Dobonsolo, Nggapulu and Sinabung stop at Biak on the way to Manokwari and Jayapura. You can book tickets at the Pelni office (Jl Sudirman 37; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun), though it’s worth paying a little extra for a ticket from one of the agencies that spring up from nowhere around the port when a boat is due, rather than wait in line at the Pelni office for hours.
Perintis and a few other boats also stop at Biak. Tickets and current schedules are available at the port.
Refer to the relevant sections later for information about boats to Pulau Numfor, Pulau Yapen and Nabire.
GETTING AROUND
Public taxis marked ‘Ambroben’ frequently link the Frans Kaisiepo airport with most places in Kota Biak.
Taxis to places around the island are well marked and leave from the terminal along Jl Erlangga, next to Pasar Inpres. A few buses leave several times a day from just outside the taxi terminal for more-distant places, eg those marked ‘Kota Supiori Utara’ travel as far as Yenggarbun on adjoining Pulau Supiori.
Ojek drivers - distinguishable by their orange, numbered helmets - laze about at designated spots outside the taxi terminal and along Jl Imam Bonjol.
Around Pulau Biak & Nearby Islands
Many fascinating places are dotted around Pulau Biak, but public transport to the more remote areas is irregular. Public taxis and/or buses ply the rough roads to Samber (west of Kota Biak), Marao (to the east), Wardo (to the northwest), and Yenggarbun (in the far north). To places north of Wardo, and around most of Pulau Supiori, trucks, boats and feet are the main forms of transport.
Remember that villages on the island may look biggish on a map, but none is really more than a handful of huts with no accommodation or food for travellers.
URFU & SAMBER
Past Adoki, a side road continues for another bumpy 20 minutes to Urfu, surrounded by amazing rock formations. Along the beach to the pretty fishing village of Samber are some relics, reminders of a seemingly forgotten Dutch colonial past and of the Japanese occupation during WWII.
WARDO
At the end of the potholed road northwest of Kota Biak is Wardo, set on a picturesque bay. From Wardo (Biak for ‘deep water’), you used to be able to charter a boat or canoe to the gorgeous, 12m-high Air Terjun Wapsdori. An earthquake in 1996, however, restricted access to these waterfalls by river, so an hour-long hike around damaged areas is necessary. Seek local advice in Wardo before chartering a boat/canoe.
GUA BINSARI
This cave (h7am-5pm) is known locally as Gua Binsari (binsar means ‘grandmother’ in the Biak language) because an old woman apparently lived in there before WWII. During the war, the cave, which is actually a tunnel that leads several kilometres to Bosnik, was home to thousands of Japanese soldiers, and a tomb for 3000 to 5000 killed by US bombs. Nowadays, the cave’s only residents are the local bats.
A small museum over the road contains a remarkable collection of Japanese WWII weapons and photos. If the museum is unattended, ask someone at the house next door to open it. Chartering a taxi from Kota Biak is a good idea; otherwise, take a public taxi towards Bosnik and ask to be dropped off at the unsigned road that leads about 800m up the steepish hill to the cave.
TAMAN BURUNG & ANGGREK
About 4km east of Mokmer is the Orchid & Bird Garden (h7.30am-3pm).
These large, serene gardens contain 72 species of orchids and about 50 types of caged birds, including strikingly-colored loris, hornbills and cenderawasih (which is probably as close as you’ll ever get to one). Several semi-tame cassowaries roam freely around the park, so keep your eyes peeled. Except for busy Sundays, there’s often noone around - so just walk through the gate and pay your admission fee if or when someone runs after you.
BOSNIK & BEYOND
Bosnik was the Dutch capital of the island and a landing site for the Allies in WWII. Badly destroyed during the 1996 earthquake and tidal wave, it is still home to some WWII relics along the sandy beach, and a small, busy, early-morning market every Wednesday and Saturday. Bosnik is also the place to charter a boat to the enticing Padaido Islands.
The eastern road continues past Opiaref, renowned for its wood carvers, and Saba, where you can explore the ruins of an ambitious - but ultimately abandoned - four-star resort and its quiet beach. Opiaref also has a pleasant beach and an enticing cave with underground pools; ask for directions. A trail continues along the coast about 10km past more charming, deserted beaches until you reach the village of Anggaduber.
This stunning cluster of 36 reefs and islands (of which only 13 are inhabited) are wonderful for swimming, diving and snorkelling. The most appealing islands to visit are Pulau Owi (for its powder-white beach and WWII relics) and Pulau Nusi (snorkelling).
Owi and Auki Islands are the most populated and the closest to Pulau Biak, so you’re likely to find a passenger boat to these islands from Bosnik and be able to stay in a local hut. Passenger boats also travel between Bosnik and several inhabited islands on Bosnik’s market days (Wednesday and Saturday). It’s also possible to charter a boat from Bosnik, or the pasar ikan (fish market) in Kota Biak, to remote islands - but work out a price beforehand and be sure to bargain.
KOREM
On the north coast of Pulau Biak, Korem was mostly destroyed by an earthquake and subsequent tsunami in 1996. The village has been rebuilt on the western side of the main road, but the beach is still delightful. Most locals refuse to visit the beach because of the number of people who died there in 1996. Ask the taxi driver to drop you off at the turn-off to the beach, and wait for a lift or walk (about 30 minutes).
NORTH BIAK RESERVE
At the northern end of Pulau Biak is Taman Biak Utara, 110 sq km of dense wilderness and pristine beaches. One highlight in the general area is Air Terjun Warfasak, a broad waterfall that plunges into a small lake, near Warsa. The best way to get around the reserve is on foot with an experienced local guide. Tours and guides can be organized by one of the travel agencies in Biak.
PULAU SUPIORI
Separated from Pulau Biak by a narrow channel, most of Supiori Island is desig- nated as the Supiori Island Reserve (Taman Pulau Supiori), an area of mangroves and montane forests with endemic species of parrots and cockatoos. If the bridge over the channel is broken, a pontoon with an ingenious pulley system takes passengers and even vehicles across the water.
The main road on Supiori continues as far as Wapur, though buses stop at Yeng- garbun. If you have time, soaking up the scenery by public (or chartered) taxi/bus from Kota Biak to the channel and back is worthwhile. One of Biak’s travel agencies can arrange local guides, and accommodation in Wapur and Yenggarbun should you wish to stay.
PULAU NUMFOR
This irresistible, unspoilt and undeveloped island is about half-way between Biak and Manokwari. Dozens of unexplored snorkelling and swimming spots are scattered around the island, such as Pantai Asaibori in the west and Pantai Pakreki to the south. From Kameri on Numfor, you can charter a boat (20 minutes) to the heavenly Pulau Manem, where there’s no shortage of bird life, sandy beaches and Japanese WWII wrecks.
There is no official accommodation on Numfor, but you can stay with a local family if you contact the kepala desa in the main villages of Yemburwo (on the north coast), Kameri (a little further west) and Namber (west coast).
Merpati flies between Biak and Yemburwo twice weekly. The Padmos boat leaves from the main port in Kota Biak every week for a circular route to Numfor (12 to 15 hours), Manokwari and Ransiki, before returning to Biak via Numfor. Ask at the port for more details. Also, unscheduled public speedboats (which can be chartered) leave the pasar ikan in Kota Biak (8 to 10 hours), while other boats leave from Andie, near Yemburwo, for Kota Biak and Manokwari (five to six hours).
PULAU YAPEN
This elongated mountainous island south of Pulau Biak offers bird life around its northern shores and superb snorkelling in several spots.
The only town of any size is the district capital, Serui. A surat jalan, which is needed for anywhere on the island, can be easily obtained in Kota Biak. Bank Mandiri (Jl Diponegoro) will reluctantly change US dollars cash.
Sights & Activities
To find some of the few c enderawasih still surviving in the north of the island, charter a boat (holding about 10 people) from Serui. A guide will arrange for you to stay in local villages. A ‘protection fee’ of 100,000Rp is levied on each group looking for the birds. To save the hassle of organising things yourself, bird-watching tours can be arranged with the travel agencies listed in the Biak and Jayapura sections.
Less than one hour south of Serui, the district capital, P ulau Arumbai offers superb snorkelling (bring your own gear) among coral reefs and dolphins, and is home to thousands of cockatoos and hornbills. There are also decent beaches at Pantai Mariadei and Pantai Ketuapi, and the scenery around Danau Sarawandori is delightful. You must charter a boat to Arumbai from Serui, but the beaches and lake are accessible by public taxi from Serui.
Public transport goes as far as Wooi in the west and Manawi in the east, but is infrequent, so chartering a taxi is a quicker way of getting around. All roads on Yapen are rough and the terrain is mountainous, so allow plenty of time to get around.
Sleeping & Eating
The only three hotels on the island are all in Serui. Each offers rooms with a fan and bathroom, and the rates include three meals.
Merpati Inn (Jl Yos Sudarso) Though it’s a bit noisy, this is Serui’s best place to stay - staff are cluey about chartered boats and Merpati schedules.
For rather unremarkable, but clean, hotel accommodation:
Bersaudara Hotel (Jl Jendral Sudirman 56)
Marina Hotel (Jl Wolter Monginsidi)
If you tire of hotel food, try a warung or rumah makan serving Padang food in the port area.
Getting There & Away
Merpati flies between Biak and Serui three times a week. Find the Merpati office (Jl Yos Sudarso) next to (you guessed it) Merpati Inn.
Every two weeks, Pelni liners Doro Londa, Nggapulu and Sinabung stop on their way to Biak, Jayapura and Nabire. The overnight ferry Teluk Cenderawasih I makes the journey to Nabire and Biak twice a week. Tickets for all boats are available at the Pelni office (Jl Diponegoro).
An adventurous alternative is to charter a boat from the pasar ikan in Kota Biak to the northern edges of Pulau Yapen, from where you’ll have to wait around for public transport to Serui.
NABIRE
Although travellers often pass over the capital of the Paniai district, Nabire is a pleasantly low-key town with wide streets, and nearby beaches and islands to explore.
Orientation & Information
Jl Pepera has a few important buildings, including the Telkom office and Bank Mandiri.
Along nearby Jl Yos Sudarso (parallel to the waterfront) are the main post office, taxi terminal and most shops. The airport is walking distance (ask directions) from the hotels.
You can pick up a surat jalan for Nabire and/or trips into the interior at the police station (Jl Sisingamangaraja) in Nabire.
Sights & Activities
Like most of Papua, the accessibility of nearby attractions is limited by irregular transport, rough roads and travel restrictions. For wonderful hiking and swimming, you can charter a boat to islands such as Pulau Moor, Pulau Papaya and Pulau Nusi (where it may be possible to stay in a hut, but bring your own food). Boats to these and other islands usually leave from the MAF Beach at the end of Jl Sisingamangaraja. Or perhaps charter a taxi to the hot springs near the port, or take a public taxi to Pantai Wahario, the best place for swimming and snorkeling (bring your own gear) in the area.
Sleeping & Eating
Anggrek Hotel (Jl Pepera 22) The second-best option, the Anggrek is set around a lovely garden. All rooms share mandis.
Hotel Nusantara (Jl Pemuda 147) The best of a limited choice, this hotel has friendly service, a charming setting and a large range of rooms; prices include meals.
The most appealing of the cheap eateries around the taxi terminal are Rumah Makan Sari and Rumah Makan Kebun Sirih. For some of the most mouth-watering baked fish in Papua, try any of the warungs opposite the taxi terminal.
Getting There & Away
From Nabire, Merpati flies most days to Biak, and less frequently to Jayapura and Fak-Fak. Book as soon as you can at the Merpati office (Jl Trikora), near Hotel Nusantara - as usual, be prepared for delays.
Every two weeks, the Pelni liners Doro Londa and Nggapulu stop at the Samabusa port near Nabire on the way to Serui and Manokwari. Perintis boats also crawl along the north coast and stop in Nabire every week or so, and Teluk Cenderawasih I heads to Serui (Pulau Yapen) and Kota Biak twice a week.
Samabusa port is about 20km east of Nabire; taxis are frequent when boats arrive and depart. The Pelni office (Jl Sam Ratulangi 14) is behind the taxi terminal.
TIMIKA
Timika exists almost entirely to service the Freeport copper and gold mine in Tembagapura, approximately 60km to the northeast. Although well connected to most cities in Papua, there are several reasons to avoid Timika: visiting the mine is not possible unless you’ve been officially invited by a Freeport employee; you will need a surat jalan before you can enter Timika; and, even more expensive than Wamena, Timika has little of interest to travellers.
Losmen Amole Jaya (Jl Pelikan; d with fan & bathroom) is the best - and about the only - budget priced option. Meals are available to guests.
Serayu Hotel (Jl Achmad Yani 10; d with bathroom) The Serayu is a solid, reliable midrange option, a five-minute drive from the airport.
Timika serves as a useful entry point to Papua. Merpati and Garuda flights connecting Jakarta or Denpasar with Biak or Jayapura often detour through Timika.
Book flights at the Merpati office (Jl Cenderawasih 28) and Garuda office (Jl Cenderawasih SPII). From the air, you can see the awesome Freeport mine and the snow-capped Puncak Jaya (Carstenz Pyramid), Papua’s highest mountain.
Every two weeks, the Pelni liner Sangiang stops at the nearby Amamapare port on its way to Merauke, Agats and southeast Maluku. Every four weeks, the Kelimutu and Tatamailau stop on their way to Merauke and southeast Maluku.
