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With its limited infrastructure, administrative sloth, political strife that continually keeps hot spots off-limits to foreigners, and an equatorial clime that puts siesta time in effect between 1pm and 5pm, Papua poses a few travel challenges. To those willing to accept, the rewards flow with a generosity as life-sustaining as Papua’s brown tributaries rib-boning through its thick, enigmatic jungle canopy.
IRIAN JAYA OR PAPUA?
When the Portuguese first sighted the island now shared by Papua and Papua New Guinea (PNG) in 1511 they called it Ilhas dos Papuas (Island of the Fuzzy Hairs), from the Malay word papuwah.
Later, Dutch explorers called the island New Guinea, because the black-skinned people reminded them of the inhabitants of Guinea in Africa - and named the western half Dutch New Guinea. When sovereignty was transferred to Indonesia, the province was renamed Irian Barat (West Irian) and then Irian Jaya; jaya means ‘victorious’ in Bahasa Indonesia and irian means ‘hot land rising from the sea’ in the Biak language. To placate the growing separatist movement, the Indonesian government agreed to rename the province Papua on 26 December 2001. To add to the confusion, many Papuan activists, and some international nongovernmental organisations (NGOs), refer to it as West Papua. And at the time of writing, Papua was divided into two provinces: Papua and Irian Jaya Barat (or ‘Irjabar’).
HISTORY
Dutch Rule
In 1660 the Dutch recognised the Sultan of Tidore’s sovereignty over New Guinea island and, because the Dutch held power over Tidore (the Sultan’s territory), New Guinea theoretically became Dutch. The British unsuccessfully attempted to establish a settlement near Manokwari in 1793, but by 1824 Britain and the Netherlands agreed that the western half, Dutch New Guinea, would become part of the Dutch East Indies.
In 1828 the Dutch established a token settlement in Lobo (near Kaimana) but it also failed miserably. About 27 years later the first missionaries, Germans, established a settlement on an island near Manokwari. The Dutch didn’t try to develop the province again until 1896, when settlements were set up in Manokwari and Fak-Fak in response to perceived Australian ownership claims from the eastern half of New Guinea island. The province continued to be virtually ignored, except by mining companies from the USA and Japan, which explored the rich oil reserves during the 1930s.
WWII
After the bombing of Pearl Harbor, the Dutch declared war on Japan, so the province, as part of the Dutch East Indies, inevitably assumed importance in the battle for the Pacific. (Some Indonesians welcomed the Japanese as Asian liberators who would eradicate the hated Dutch colonialists.)
In early 1944 a four-phase push, led by US army general Douglas MacArthur, was launched from what is now Papua New Guinea (PNG) to liberate Dutch New Guinea from Japanese occupation. The Allies were far from optimistic: this part of the world was almost completely undeveloped, inhospitable and unchartered.
Phase one, the capture of Hollandia (Jayapura), was the largest amphibious operation of the war in the southwestern Pacific and involved 80,000 Allied troops. (Numerous WWII monuments and relics in and around Jayapura are testament to this event.) The second phase, to capture Sarmi, saw strong resistance from the Japanese. The third phase was the capture of Pulau Biak (primarily to control the air-field) and nearby Pulau Numfor, on the way to Sorong. Several hard battles were fought on Biak, exacerbated by Allied intelligence severely underestimating the Japanese strength. The fourth and final phase was the successful push to the Japanese air bases on Pulau Morotai, off northern Hal- mahera, and then towards the Philippines.
Along the south coast, the Allies fought for control of Merauke because of fears that it would be used as a base for Japanese air attacks against Australia.
Indonesia Takes Over
In 1945 the Dutch wrenched back the territory from the Japanese and used it as a place of exile. The infamous Boven Digul camp (in Tanahmerah) was established as a prison for Indonesian nationalists.
Following international pressure, the Dutch were forced to withdraw from the Dutch East Indies (which became Indonesia) after WWII, but still clung to Dutch New Guinea. In an attempt to stop Indonesia from gaining control, the Dutch encouraged Papuan nationalism and began building schools and colleges to train Papuans in professional skills, with the aim of preparing them for self-rule by 1970.
Following WWII most Indonesian political factions claimed that Dutch New Guinea, like the rest of the former Dutch East Indies, should be part of Indonesia. Throughout 1962 Indonesian forces infiltrated the province, but with little success. The Papuan population failed to welcome the Indonesians as liberators and either attacked them or handed them over to the Dutch. However, US pressure eventually forced the Dutch to capitulate abruptly in August 1962.
A vaguely worded agreement in that year, under UN auspices, required that Indonesia allow the Papuans to determine, by the end of 1969, whether they wanted independence or to remain within the In- donesian republic. So in 1969 an ‘Act of Free Choice’ was ‘supervised’ by the UN. The Indonesian government, however, suddenly declared that it would use the procedure of musyawarah, by which a consensus of ‘elders’ would be reached.
In July 1969 the Indonesian government announced that the assemblies in the Merauke, Jayawijaya and Paniai districts had unanimously decided to become part of Indonesia. And West Irian, as it was then known, became Indonesia’s 26th province.
Papuan Opposition
Even before the ‘Act of Free Choice’, the Indonesians faced violent opposition from the Papuans. In 1969 rebellions broke out on Pulau Biak and at Enarotali in the western highlands. Between 1977 and the mid-1980s occasional conflict erupted in the mountains around the Baliem Valley, at Tembagapura (site of the US-run Freeport mine), and in remote areas of the Paniai district.
After a short lull, anti-Indonesian activity recommenced. In 1995 members and sympathisers of the major independence group, the Free Papua Movement or Organisasi Papua Merdeka (OPM), stormed the Indonesian consulate in Vanimo, just over the border in PNG, and took to the streets in Tembagapura and Timika. In 1996 about 5000 Papuans rioted for several days and burned Pasar Abepura market in suburban Jayapura, resulting in several deaths. In the same year, several European and Indonesian researchers were kidnapped in a remote part of the Baliem Valley. The Europeans were released unharmed four months later, but two Indonesian hostages were killed by the OPM.
By late 1998 the post-Soeharto government indicated a willingness to listen to separatists and reduced the military presence in the province. In December 2001 the province was officially renamed Papua and significant concessions were offered by Jakarta: increased autonomy and a reinvestment of 80% of the revenue from Papua into the province.
But most separatists still want total independence and demilitarisation by Indonesia. Papuans are also still angry because the Indonesian government continues to sell off parts of the province for logging, mining and other commercial purposes without compensation or consultation. And they resent the occasional brutal responses of the Indonesians to political dissent.
Transmigrasi
The Indonesian policy of transmigrasi is also one of the reasons for continuing unrest in Papua. Over one-third of Papua’s population originates from outside the province, mainly from Java, Bali and Sulawesi. Most of the transmigrants live in settlements near the main towns of Jayapura, Merauke, Manokwari, Nabire and Sorong.
As Papua represents about 22% of Indonesia’s total territory, but only about 1% of its population, the Indonesian government continues to move thousands of people to Papua from other, overcrowded islands. Poor locations and lack of planning for many existing settlements indicate that the main thrust of transmigrasi is less for the benefit of the transmigrants than to make the province truly ‘Indonesian’.
CLIMATE
Generally the best (driest) time to visit Papua is between May and October, though it can - and does - often rain anywhere, anytime. (Rain falls in Kota Biak about 25 days a month.) Strong wind and rain are more common along the north coast from November to March. Along the south coast, however, it can get quite wet and windy from April to October - but this is the dry season in Merauke, the only part of Papua with distinct seasons. The best time to visit the Baliem Valley is between March and August when the days are drier and cooler, though nights are usually cold year-round. Coastal towns are generally hot and humid, while it’s often cooler in the highlands
WILDLIFE
About 75% of Papua is forest, so it’s no surprise that its flora is as varied as its geography. The usual lush collection of Asiatic species lie in the transition zone between Asia and Australia, postulated as the Wallace Line. The south coast’s vegetation includes mangroves and sago palms, as well as eucalypts, paperbarks and acacias in the drier southeastern section. Highland vegetation ranges from alpine grasslands and heath to unique pine forests, bush and scrub. Papua boasts over 2500 species of orchids.
Animals are largely confined to marsu pials, such as bandicoots, ring-tailed possums, pygmy flying phalangers, large cuscuses, tree kangaroos and wallabies. Reptiles include snakes both poisonous and not, crocodiles and frill-necked lizards. Papua is also home to about 800 species of spiders, 200 types of frogs and 30,000 kinds of beetles, while Pegunungan Arfak is renowned for its colourful butterflies.
Despite large-scale plunder, Papua’s exquisite bird life is still a popular attraction for serious twitchers. Among the province’s 600 species are thriving populations of cassowaries, bowerbirds, cockatoos, parrots, kingfishers and crowned pigeons. The acclaimed and elusive cenderawasih inhabit parts of Kepala Burung and Pulau Yapen.
CULTURE
The interior is predominantly populated by indigenous Papuans, while coastal towns are inhabited by descendants of inter marriages between Papuans and Melanesians and Indonesians, as well as transmigrants from western Indonesia.
Dani from the Baliem Valley live in compounds of huts made from trees and mud, raising their precious pigs. They still often use stone implements to farm their dietary/agricultural staple, the sweet potato.
Less accessible are the Manikom and Hatam people who live near the Anggi Lakes, and the Kanum and Marind near Merauke. Other inhabitants of the southeast are the Asmat people, who are renowned for their carvings. Further inland from the Asmat region, the Kombai and Korowai live in truly extraordinary tree houses, sometimes up to dozens of meters above ground, to avoid tides, wild animals and tribal invasion. Incredibly, the Indonesian media reported in mid-1998 that two ‘new tribes’ that use sign language to com- municate had been ‘found’ in very remote parts of the interior.
Churches of all denominations are found throughout Papua, but (despite claims by fervent missionaries) indigenous people enjoy a combination of traditional beliefs and Christianity. Officially, 99% of the Papuan population is Christian, but this seems difficult to believe given the number of transmigrants from Muslim dominated Java and Sulawesi.
Estimates of the number of languages spoken in Papua range from 200 to over 700 (there has been very little study about the linguistics of the province). There is no doubt though, that Papua and neighbouring PNG, with a combined population of only a few million, speak an inordinately high percentage of the world’s languages. Sadly, some of these languages are slowly and permanently disappearing.
TRAVEL PERMIT
For increasingly obscure political and bureaucratic reasons, foreigners must obtain a travel permit known as a surat keterangan jalan - commonly known as a surat jalan - before they can visit some places in Papua, particularly the interior.
At the time of writing, you could visit Jayapura, Sentani, Manokwari, Pulau Biak and Sorong without a surat jalan. Depending on the whim of the local police, you may need one for Pulau Biak, Nabire and Manokwari; however, you can get one easily after you arrive at these towns. For other areas, such as Merauke, the Asmat region, Pulau Yapen, Timika, Fak-Fak, and the Baliem Valley (including Wamena), you must have a surat jalan before arrival. At the time of writing, foreigners were not permitted to go to Gunung Trikora (Trikora Mountain), the Paniai district, Danau Habbema (Lake Habbema) or Sungai Mamberamo (Mamberamo River). For anywhere else not mentioned here, it’s safe to assume that you’ll need a surat jalan.
The permit lasts from one week to one month depending on the amount of time you request, the expiry date of your visa and the mood of the police. If you have a 30-day tourist visa, you can apply for a surat jalan at a local police station (polres). If you have a business visa or any other type of visa, you’ll have to visit a branch of the provincial police force (polda), probably in Jayapura. Permits are normally available at any district capital, and are particularly easy to get in Kota Biak and Jayapura, where the staff are used to foreigners. Some police stations may be reluctant to issue a surat jalan allowing you to visit a more remote area of another district, so you may have to apply for a separate permit at the relevant district capital.
When you apply for the permit, supply the police with two passport-size photos and a big smile, and then tell them all the towns/places you may possibly travel to. It will take about one hour to type up for which an ‘administration fee’ is required. The whole process may sound overwhelming, but don’t be concerned: the police are invariably helpful and friendly, and as bored with the paperwork as you are. To save time and hassle, a travel agent or hotel in Papua may be able to arrange the permit for a negotiable fee. If you’re on an organised tour, the permit should be arranged by your travel agency.
In places where a surat jalan is needed, your hotel or guide will request a photocopy of your permit to bring to the local police for registration and stamping. If not, you’ll have to report to the police station yourself, preferably as soon as you arrive; certainly within 24 hours. In remote areas, including the Baliem Valley, you’ll need to report and show your permit to the police or village authorities wherever you stay overnight. Al- ways keep a few photocopies of your permit handy to give to local authorities.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Most visitors fly straight to Jayapura through Biak and/or Makassar (Sulawesi) for a connection to Wamena in the Baliem Valley, but there are a number of other interesting ways to enter Papua. You could fly to Port Moresby (capital of PNG), and on to Vanimo before chartering a boat or crossing on foot to Jayapura; take a Pelni liner to Timika or Merauke and fly to Jayapura; take a boat or plane between Sorong or Fak- Fak and other Indonesian islands; or take a boat and/or plane along the north coast to Jayapura, stopping at Manokwari, Biak, Nabire and/or Serui.
Air
Unless you have lots of time, flying is the best way to get to and around Papua. Merpati Nusantara Airlines regularly links Papua’s main regional centres (Sorong, Biak and Jayapura) with major cities elsewhere in Indonesia, such as Makassar and Jakarta. Garuda Indonesia airlines also links Biak and Jayapura with western Indonesia.
Boat
Several Pelni liners, notably the Tatamailau, Ciremai, Doro Londa and Nggapulu, link the north and south coasts of Papua with Maluku, Sulawesi and Java every two or four weeks. While the relevant sections later in this chapter list some fares for major routes.
A few Perintis boats regularly link the north coast of Papua with Sulawesi and northern Maluku, and connect the south coast of Papua with southeast Maluku.
GETTING AROUND
Very few roads have successfully crossed the seemingly impenetrable terrain of Papua. Roads between Jayapura and Wamena, and Sorong and Manokwari, have been started, but are unlikely to be completed in the next few years - if ever! Boats are slow, infrequent and often uncomfortable, so flying is the best, and sometimes only, option.
Air
The hubs for internal flights around Papua are Sorong for the northwest; Biak for the Teluk Cenderawasih (Cenderawasih Bay) region; Jayapura for the Baliem Valley; and Merauke for the southeast coast. Some flights on the main carrier, Merpati, are over-booked, while others are cancelled through a lack of passengers. Garuda, which flies between Timika, Biak and Jayapura, is more reliable.
Merpati offices in Fak-Fak, Serui, Yemburwo (Pulau Numfor), Anggi, Senggo, Ewer and Manokwari are not computerised, so you can only book a flight from these towns at the relevant Merpati offices. This results in double-bookings and utter chaos at the offices, and a telephone reservation before arrival is usually worth diddly-squat. So, if you’re flying with Merpati, always allow plenty of time and be prepared for delays and cancellations. Merpati planes to smaller destinations have a 10kg baggage limit per person, though this is usually ignored if you’re a few kilograms over.
Between Sentani (Jayapura) and Wamena, planes are also operated by the cargo carrier Trigana Air Service (Wamena airport terminal, Sentani airport terminal), Protestant-run Mission Aviation Fellowship (MAF; Wamena; Jl Gatot Subroto; Sentani; Jl Misi Sentani) and the Indonesian army. The MAF and the Catholic-run Associated Mission Aviation (AMA; Jl Misi Sentani, Sentani) also fly from Sentani (Jayapura) and/or Wamena to a dozen or more remote villages in the central and western highlands. These organisations sometimes accept tourists, but their primary concern is missionary business. You can also often charter their planes at exorbitant rates. Make sure you book at least one week in advance. Airfast planes, based in Jakarta, can also be chartered to/from Timika.
While information about schedules is included in the relevant sections later in this chapter.
Boat
Travelling around Papua by boat will take some time as well as planning. Four big Pelni liners - the Ciremai, Dobonsolo, Doro Londa and Nggapulu - stop at major towns along the north coast every two weeks. The Sangiang plies the south coast every two weeks, while the Tatamailau and Kelimutu also crawl along the south coast every four weeks. The Transport chapter has more information about Pelni schedules, while the relevant sections later in this chapter list some fares for major routes.
The next best option is a Perintis boat along either coast, but they are less comfortable and slower than Pelni liners. Many other basic boats sail along certain smaller sections of both coasts, and as far inland as
the enormous rivers will allow. See relevant sections for more details.
No boat regularly links the north coast of Papua with the south coast.
