Pulau Ternate (Ternate Island)

Translate to :

A string of perfect volcanic cone islands lurk off the western coast of crazy-K shaped Pulau Halmahera. Of these, Pulau Ternate and its neighbour Pulau Tidore are the most populous, visually dramatic and historically significant. Both islands are ancient Islamic sultanates with a long history of bitter rivalry. As the world’s only major producers of a globally important product (cloves), their sultans became the most powerful rulers in the medieval Indies, wasting much of their wealth fighting each other. At certain times both sultans could claim nominal influence that spread as far afield as Ambon, Sulawesi and Papua.

In 1511 the Portuguese were the first Europeans to settle in Ternate. Tidore’s then ruler quickly responded by inviting in the Spaniards. Both sultans found their hospitality rapidly exhausted as the Europeans tried to dominate the islands, corner the spice market and preach Christianity. Ternate’s Muslim population, already offended by the European’s imported pigs and heavy-handed ‘justice’, were driven to rebel when Sultan Hairun (Khairun) was executed and his head exhibited on a pike in February 1570. The besieged Portuguese held out in their castle till 1575 when the new Ternatean sultan took it over as his palace. Five years later he entertained the English pirate-adventurer Francis Drake. After an amicable meeting, Drake astounded his host by his almost total disinterest in buying cloves. In fact, Drake’s ship Golden Hind was so full of stolen Spanish-American gold that he simply couldn’t carry any cloves.

The Spaniards and Dutch were the next to make themselves unpopular. In a history that is as fascinating as it is complicated and Machiavellian, they played Ternate off against Tidore as well as confronting one another for control of an elusive clove monopoly. The Dutch prevailed eventually, though the sultanates continued almost uninterrupted for most of the period and remain well-respected institutions today.

Ternate saw some violence in 1999-2000, but is now rebounding with major construction programmes. A proposed geothermal power station between Kastela and Rua should one day end the island’s regular power cuts, but as yet there’s only a collapsed signboard at the site.

KOTA TERNATE
Clinging to the volcanic cone of dramatic Gamalama, Kota Ternate offers some lovely glimpses of neighbouring islands but is mainly useful as a base for exploring North Maluku. There are a couple of partly restored forts and a palace to visit. For now most other architecture looks rather drab and haphazard, spiced painfully in some suburbs by occasional ruins of churches gutted in 1999. However a massive land-reclamation and building programme seems set to transform the city over coming years. Several fine new mosques are already under construction.

Orientation
Areas within the city are still called ‘villages’ but in reality, Kota Ternate is one long sprawl stretching around 10km from the airport to beyond Bastiong port. The commercial centre is on and around Jl Pahlawan Revolusi, known at its southern end as ‘Swering’, an eternally popular promenade for afternoon strolls and evening snacking. The main north-south through-road has different names at different points: Jl Sultan Khairun, Jl Merdeka, Jl Mononutu, Jl Hasan Esa and eventually Jl Raya Bastiong.

Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Chamber Internet (Jl Hasan Esa).
Muara C@feNet (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; h8am-midnight). It’s in the Muara Hotel lobby, upstairs above the Nirwana Elsh Hotel.
Warnet Gamalama.net (Jl Pattimura; h24hr). Within the Telkom Building. Warung Internet Anteronet (Jl Sultan Khairun 125).
Bank Mandiri (Jl Nukila).
BNI Bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; 7.30-noon Fri)
Danamon Bank (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi).
TELEPHONE
Strangely Ternate phone numbers can have five, six or seven digits. Expect rationalization in coming years.
Telkom (Jl Pattimura & Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; h24hr
TOURIST INFORMATION
North Maluku Tourist Office (Jl Kamboja 14; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Ternate City Tourist Office (Jl Kamaluddin 7; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri).
Sights
KERATON (ISTANA KESULTAN)
Built in 1796 and restored in semi-colonial style, the Sultan’s Palace is still a family home. However there is a museum section (donation) containing a small but interesting collection of Portuguese and Dutch helmets, various swords and armour, plus memorabilia from the reigns of past sultans. Notice the genealogy of the Ternatean royal family dating back to 1257. The airy veranda offers wide views towards Halmahera. First step in a visit is signing in at the Sekretariat kiosk (h6am-6pm) to find when a guide is available. If you’re lucky you might even be granted an audience with the sultan’s enchanting sister Ibu Rini, and hear tales (in fluent English) of the royal family’s amazing life sagas.

Only groups with the Sultan’s permission (arranged well ahead) may see the mahkota (royal crown). Topped with cassowary feathers, it’s worn only at coronations and supposedly has magical powers including growing ‘hair’, which needs periodic cutting. Some claim it has the more impressive ability to stop Gamalama from erupting.
All northbound bemos pass the grassy square that the Keraton overlooks.

SULTAN’S MOSQUE
Just south of the palace, the royal mosque has a traditional multi-tiered pyramid form. Beneath the corrugated red roof the heavy interior timberwork is impressive. There are big expansion plans. The mosque is the focus of Laila Tulqadr celebrations on the 27th evening of Ramadan when a mass of flaming torches welcomes the Sultan’s procession.

BENTENG ORANYE
Almost hidden in the market-melee right at the centre of town are three re-concreted walls and four cannon topped bastions. That’s all that remains a massive 1607 fort that was headquarters of the entire Dutch VOC operation before it moved to Batavia (Jakarta) in around 1619. The fort later became the residence of the Dutch governors in Ternate.

BENTENG TOLUKKO
Built by the Portuguese in 1512 and restored by the Dutch in 1610, this dinky little ‘womb-shaped’ fort (also known as Benteng Hollandia) was the first European stronghold on Ternate. For a donation the lady living beside the entrance can let you in and show you photos of the extensive 1996 renovations. Take any bemo bound for Dufa-Dufa (3km from town centre).

BENTENG KALAMATA
At the southernmost end of town, this small, heavy-handedly renovated fort is about 1km south of Bastiong. Once known as Benteng Kayu Merah (Red Wood Fort), it was built in 1540 by the Portuguese, and rebuilt by the Dutch in 1610. Waves lap right up to its angled walls and there are great views across to Tidore. Take a Rua, Sasa or Jambula bemo.

GUNUNG API GAMALAMA
This 1721m volcano is Pulau Ternate. Gamalama erupted in 1840, destroying almost every house on the island. Although it has blown its fiery nose as recently as 1980, 1983 and 1994 it is not considered imminently dangerous. A volcanology unit keeps careful watch from Marikuruba village. There are pleasant, short, clove-grove hikes from Air Tege Tege village (near the transmitter tower). The going is very steep and climbing above the tree line is both strenuous and hazardous. Reaching the often cloud-shrouded summit takes around five hours and requires a guide. At least two foreign visitors have disappeared in the attempt; some claim this was because they broke taboos (eg not urinating above a certain elevation) or failed to say requisite prayers en route. The tourist offices can help locate guides.

Sleeping
You’ll probably value a powerful new air conditioner given the oppressive heat and sauna-like humidity. Even the nicest existing places often have a little peeling paint, damp patches, a slimy mandi and a hint of dysfunction. However at least five great-looking new hotels are under construction, including the almost finished Surya Pagi (Jl Stadion), what looks a major construction in Ubo Ubo and the three-star waterfront Jati Plaza, part of the big new mall development.

BUDGET
Taman Ria.Penginapan Sabrina (Jl Sali Effendi)
Hotel Indah (Jl Bosoiri 3Nirwana Elsh Hotel (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi)
Neraca Golden Hotel (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi)
Losmen Kita (Jl Stadion
Ternate City Hotel (Jl Nuku 1
Penginapan Kembar Emas (Jl Feri, Bastiong
Penginapan Purnama (Mohajarin Falajawa).
Penginapan Sejahtera (Jl Salim Fabanyo 298).

MIDRANGE
Barokah Guest House (Gang Oskar)
Wisma Megah Ternate (Jl Raya Bastiong Dusun)
Bukit Pelangi Hotel (Jl Jati Selatan 338).
Hotel Archie (Jl Nuku 6).
Hotel Puri Azzali (Jl Mononutu 275).

Eating
For cheap eats there’s an almost limitless number of warungs, notably around the markets and on the ‘Swering’ promenade (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi).
The island’s most appealing upmarket eateries are outside the city in Terau and Ngade.
Rumah Makan Jailolo (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi 7)
Hitam Putih (Jl Hasan Senen).
Kafe Citra Rasa (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi)
Barokah (Gang Oskar).
California (Jl Hasan Senen).
Pondok Katu (Jl Branjangan 28
For self-catering try the Sriwijaya Swalaya (Jl Bosoiri) or Muara (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi) mini-markets. Family Bakery (Jl Nukila)

Entertainment
In Ternate most entertainment revolves around dining or karaoke. Alternatively a couple of days per month you could turn out to cheer for Persiter, Ternate’s major-league football team who play at the often overfull, unshaded Kie Rahu stadium. For afternoon games bring plenty of water, sun protection and a fan.

Getting There & Away
AIR
Lion Air/Wings Air (Almas Mega Travel; Jl Pattimura).
Express Air (Jl Stadion).
Trigana Air (Archie Travel; Jl Raya Bastiong).
Merpati (Jl Bosoiri).
Bela Travel (Jl Bosoiri).

BOAT
Ternate is the shipping hub for North Maluku. Ahmad Yani port is the passenger harbour for Pelni liners. The irregular Sangiang loops round Halmahera. Nggapulu and Sinabung both stop at Ternate between Sorong (Papua; 14 to 16 hours) and Bitung (northern Sulawesi, seven hours).
The Lambelu links Ternate with Ambon (19 hours) via Namlea (Buru) eastbound only.
Non-Pelni slow boats RM Theodora/Intim Teratai both sail to Manado (21 hours) on Saturdays/Thursdays and to Sanana (Sula Islands, up to two days) on Tuesdays/Thursdays.
Other jetties:
Bastiong ferry port Vehicle ferries daily to Rum (Tidore, 7am) and Sidangoli (Halmahera) and overnight to Bitung (North Sulawesi, 10am Wednesdays and 5pm Saturdays).
Bastiong ‘first’ port Speedboats to Rum (Tidore), and all boat services to Makian, Bacan and Obi.
Dufa-Dufa jetty Speedboats to Jailolo (Halmahera).
Kota Baru jetty Twice daily speedboats to Sofifi (Halmahera) from where mobils connect to Weda.
Mesjid Baru/Jati Mall jetty Speedboats to Sidangoli (Halmahera).
Swering/Central Promenade jetty Daily speedboats to Goto (Tidore) and to Sofifi (Halmahera).

AROUND PULAU TERNATE
The places in this section are covered anticlockwise from Kota Ternate.
Facing the crashing waves in Terau, Bacalepo is one of Ternate’s most appealing cafés, with a hint of Balinese style and a stepped waterfront terrace. Just beyond, Batu Angus (Burnt Rock) is a spiky 300-year-old lava flow, not a type of steak.

At the top of the island, Sulamadaha has a popular if somewhat scruffy black-sand beach just beyond the simple but acceptable Hotel Pantai Indah. From a cove some 800m east, occasional public long-boats buzz across to the offshore volcanic cone of Pulau Hiri. Hiri was last step of the Sultan’s family’s 1945 Sound of Music-style escape from Ternate. Snorkeling off Hiri is relatively good by Ternate standards and there are plans for a dive-shop in Sulamadaha - ask Riko at Istana FM near Bastiong ‘First’ port.

Beyond some nutmeg plantations and the village of Takome, the main road returns to the coast beside small, muddy Danau Tolire Kecil. Less than a kilometre further, a paved side-lane climbs to the rim of Danau Tolire Besar. Startlingly sheer cliffs plummet down to the lugubriously green, crocodile-infested waters of this deep crater lake. Local children offer guide services should you want to descend.

Jouburiki beach, reached by a footpath from the southern edge of Dorpedu, was the spot where Ternate’s very first sultan was supposedly crowned in 1257. More picturesque black-sand beaches are found at Rua and at Kastela. The latter village is named for the 1522 Portuguese fort of Benteng Nosra Senora del Rosario, whose ruins have recently received some ham-fisted partial renovations. Beside it, topped with a giant clove, a concrete monument graphically reminds you that the Portuguese murdered Sultan Hairun in 1570 then got their comeuppance five years later.

At Ngade the stubby fort remnant of Benteng Santo Pedro i Paulo was once Ternate’s main line of defence against a 1606 Spanish attack.
Floridas.  Across the road from the fort, Floridas is a terraced restaurant with splendid views across the bay to the superimposed cones of Tidore and Maitara. They serve quite outstanding ikan woku kenari (fish in hot almond sauce roasted in a banana leaf ).
Teratai. Near Floridas, Teratai has similarly lovely views.Danau Laguna, a pleasant, spring-fed bowl-lake with a lushly forested perimeter is the last green space before reaching Kota Ternate again near Benteng Kalamata.

Getting Around
Most of the paved round-island road is served by public bemos from Kota Ternate’s central terminal. They are remarkably frequent as far as Sulamadaha and Kastela. Although no single bemo goes right around, some north-route vehicles drive as far as Togafo. From there it’s a pleasantly windy 2km walk to Taduma, where the longest south-route bemos start.
A better alternative is to charter an ojek for the afternoon.

Support Indonesia Java International Destination