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The departure point for boats to Nias, Sibolga is a west-coast port town with a reputation for hustling tourists. As tourist numbers decline, the hassles have diminished to a fish boil of touts when you step off the bus/boat - the usual port town bad manners. Watch your money, know how much things cost and have a healthy scepticism for unsolicited advice.
BNI bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Katamso) It is advisable to change money here or use the ATM, as options are limited on Nias.
Post office (Jl Tobing; h8am-6pm)
Internet access available (5000Rp per hour).
Telkom wartel (Jl A Yani 35) International phone calls can be made from here.
Dangers & Annoyances
Dragging around surf gear will invite inflated prices: either be willing to bargain hard or accept a degree of extra ‘service’.
A more serious scam involves being detained on suspicion of carrying drugs. Some travelers have reported being searched and intimidated by groups of uniformed officials demanding exorbitant bribes before releasing travelers. Don’t leave your bags unattended or with a ‘helpful’ guide.
Sights
Pantai Pandan is a popular white-sand beach at the village of Pandan, 11km north of Sibolga. A few hundred meters further on is Pantai Kalangan (admission). Both beaches get very crowded at weekends, but are good places to pass the time while you’re waiting to catch a boat from Sibolga. Opelet run to the beaches all day.
Sleeping & Eating
If you get stuck overnight in Sibolga, try the following:
Hotel Pasar Baru (cnr Jl Imam Bonjol & Raja Junjungan)
A decent enough place to sleep in a pinch.
Hotel Wisata Indah (Jl Katamso 51) The only upmarket hotel in town, Wisata Indah has a pool, comfortable rooms and sea views. It even has a day use fee for the pool and showers.
There are plenty of Padang restaurants and coffee shops directly across the street from the harbor for pre- or post-departure nibbles.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Ferries to Nias leave from the harbor at the end of Jl Horas. There are two port options for Nias: the capital city of Gunung Sitoli, which is in the north of the island and a three-hour bus ride from the surf break; or Teluk Dalam, which is in the south and a 15-minute ride away.
Boats to Teluk Dalam are the obvious choice but they don’t run every day.
PT Simeulue (Jl Sultan Bustani) runs a ferry to Teluk Dalam (11 hours), departing at 8pm on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday.
Economy class is two tiers of pallets in the hold of the boat; if you opt for this class, try to get a spot on the top level where it will be less claustrophobic. Cabin class at least affords privacy and a mattress, if not a higher degree of cleanliness.
If you arrive in Sibolga on any other day of the week, catch a Gunung Sitoli-bound boat (8 to 10 hours), which departs at 8pm every day but Sunday). ASDP, in front of the harbor, runs a modern passenger and car ferry. The air-con class is the best value: seats recline, the room is fairly cool and generally quiet.
Ferries generally leave one to two hours late. If you arrive in Sibolga and are told you have just missed the boat it is often worth going to the harbor yourself to verify this.
You don’t have to pay extra for surfboards on either service but you’ll be lucky to get away without coughing up any cash to the local heavies.
BUS
Sibolga is a bit of a backwater as far as bus services are concerned and the route is windy and inordinately slow. The bus terminal is on Jl Sisingamangaraja, 2km from the harbor. You can ask the bus driver to drop you off at the harbor.
There are frequent departures for Bukittinggi (12 hours), Padang (14 hours), Medan (11 hours) and Parapat (6 hours).
There are also minivan services that shuttle folks between Sibolga and Medan - prices are highly negotiable.
