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The western part of Papua offers outstanding diving and trekking, deserted beaches, remote islands, traditional cultures and easy-going towns. Travel around western Papua, however, is hindered by limited, costly and time-consuming transport, as well as annoying government regulations.
Conservationists continue to take an interest in the area: parts of Pegunungan Arfak (home to over 300 species of birds and 320 types of butterflies) are protected under the Arfak Mountains Wildlife Preservation (Capa) programme, with assistance from the World Wide Fund For Nature (WWF).
Activities
TREKKING
Pegunungan Arfak and Wondiwoi Mountain Reserve offer unlimited trekking opportunities, but you’ll have to arrange everything yourself; there are no organized tours. The Manokwari tourist office (Jl Merdeka; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) can provide useful information about trails, guides and permits, but this often depends on who you talk to. Otherwise, contact the WWF office (Jl Rendani, Wosi) or the Cenderawasih Bay Marine National Park office (Jl Rendani, Wosi) in Manokwari.
Guides/porters around western Papua cost about 80,000/45,000Rp per day. You can buy food in villages, and often stay in local houses for about 35,000Rp per person per night, but bring your own cooking and camping equipment, as well as wet-weather gear.
SORONG
Though basically an oil, logging and district administration centre, Sorong makes a decent base for diving, trekking and bird-watching tours in western Papua. The city offers no compelling reason to linger, unless you’re waiting for a plane or boat bound for points beyond. Sorong is the jumping-off point for diving in Raja Ampat islands.
Over 40 different species of cenderawasih ( bird of paradise) are found in small areas of northern Papua and southern Maluku, as well as PNG.
Cenderawasih were first taken to Europe following colonial exploration around the Dutch East Indies. Their feathers fetched remarkable prices as fashionable accessories, so the birds soon faced extinction. Because traders often removed the birds’ legs and wings to highlight their beautiful plumage, Europeans originally thought that the birds had no feet and spent their entire lives in flight.
The male bird is usually more brightly coloured than the female and displays its magnificent plumage during mating, often hanging upside down from branches to show off its colours. Cenderawasih usually nest in open parts of a tree, feed on fruit and insects, have remarkable thin, curled ‘tail-wires’ up to 30cm long with colorful tips, and make loud screeching noises.
Organised bird-watching tours can be arranged through travel agencies in Sorong, Manokwari, Biak and Jayapura.
Orientation & Information
Sorong is quite spread out, so to visit banks, government and airline offices, as well as the main port and angkot (minibus) terminal, take a public/chartered angkot.
Bank Mandiri (Jl Ahmad Yani 99) Probably the best place to change money.
Police station (Jl Basuki Rahmat) Will issue a surat jalan for travel to the interior or to any island off the coast of Sorong.
Sarana Solusi Informatika (SSI; Jl Yos Sudarso; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun) Internet access is charged in one-hour blocks, so watch that clock. About 100m west of Hotel Tanjung.
Tourist office (Jl Burung Mambuk Remu Utara) Mildly useful.
Sights & Activities
Pantai Kasuari (Cassowary Beach) is ideal for swimming and snorkelling (bring your own gear) and accessible by public angkot from the terminal. A walk (40 minutes) around Pulau Doom is appealing, but be prepared: there are more ‘hello misters’ here per second than anywhere else in Indonesia! You can reach Doom (!) by public/chartered boat from the small harbor near Hotel Indah.
From the same harbor, you can also rent a boat to the nearby Raja Ampat islands, one of the world’s most diverse reef systems. The islands include Pulau Batanta (for bird life and sandy beaches), Pulau Waigeo (hiking, swimming and snorkelling among ship-wrecks) and Pulau Kofiau (diving).
The tiny islands around Pulau Misool boast some of the best coral and marine life in Indonesia. The area is fairly sheltered, and diving is possible year-round.
Sorong’s long-established major operator is Papua Diving (Jl Gunung Gamalama 3), which runs a range of professional diving, trekking and bird-watching trips. This outfit concentrates on pre-booked, multiday tours rather than day trips, specialising in diving holidays in the Raja Ampat.
Sleeping
Hotel Indah (Jl Yos Sudarso 4) The best deals at the breezy Hotel Indah are on the 2nd floor, with aircon, ocean views and a tiled terrace. Sweet tea is the sole item offered for breakfast.
Hotel Tanjung (Jl Yos Sudarso) Situated on the waterfront near the local market, Hotel Tanjung has a range of acceptable rooms. Though the cheaper ones don’t have an attached mandi (Indonesian-style bath), all rooms come with a breakfast voucher for the oceanview restaurant upstairs.
Hotel Waigo (Jl Yos Sudarso) Playfully decked out in pink paint, psychedelic tile and stylised murals, Hotel Waigo is a superb deal - especially if you can snag one of the few ocean-view rooms. Rates include breakfast and afternoon tea, served on the open-air terrace on the 4th floor.
Hotel Mariat (Jl Ahmad Yani) Though it’s Sorong’s pinnacle of luxury, the underwhelming accommodations don’t quite merit these exorbitant prices. Still, if you’re stranded in town, a standard room could be worth the splurge - the hotel boasts the only swimming pool in western Papua, as well as a full bar.
Eating
Every evening, warungs set up shop along the waterfront.
Rumah Makan Ruta Sayang (Jl Yos Sudarso; lunch & dinner) A few doors down from Restoran Tanjung, pick up the scent of meat on the grill at this hot spot.
Restoran Tanjung (Jl Yos Sudarso; breakfast, lunch & dinner) For spectacular sunsets and delectable baked fish, head upstairs from Hotel Tanjung’s lobby.
Getting There & Away
Within Papua, Merpati flies daily from Sorong to Jayapura (with onward connections to Biak twice a week) and to Manokwari four times a week. Flights also leave daily for Jakarta, Makassar and Surabaya, while Wings flies to Manado once a week. Shop around for the best deals at the airline counters at the airport.
Sorong is the hub for all boat travel along the southern and northern coasts. Every two weeks, the Rinjani sails to Fak-Fak and Maluku (to Ternate 1st), the Sangiang plies the south coast, the Umsini links Sorong with Sulawesi (to Makassar), and the Ciremai, Nggapulu, Dobonsolo and Doro Londa connect Sorong with Sulawesi and/or Bali.
The Pelni office (Jl Ahmad Yani) also handles bookings for the Perintis boats.
The port (Jl Ahmad Yani) is inconvenient, but accessible by angkot.
Getting Around
Gone are the days of schlepping 20km out to the Jefman Island airstrip to catch your flight; Sorong’s new Domine Eduard Osok airport is conveniently located on the mainland, about 5km east of town.
Yellow angkot travel frequently along the main roads; from the airport, you’ll have to transfer at the angkot terminal to one marked ‘A’ or ‘B’ to get into town.
FAK-FAK
Wherever you turn in Fak-Fak - and yes, it is pronounced that way - your eyes will alight on picturesque views of the town’s hills, trees and sparkling sea. But this quaint colonial town, built on coastal foothills, doesn’t just have a pretty façade. While it was the first successful Dutch settlement in Papua, it retains some mystical local allure and lore. Ask around about the purported giants’ bones found in the area, or venture northward to marvel at the rock-art sites along the coast.
Fak-Fak is accessible from Pulau Ambon and the Banda Islands (both in Maluku) by sea, and Sorong by air, so it’s an enticing place to start and/or finish a visit to Papua.
Orientation & Information
Many facilities are along the main street, Jl Izaak Telussa, in the downtown area called Kota. As it snakes along the coast, this street leads to the tidy Pasar Tamburani (Tamburani Market) and the Tamburani mikrolet (minibus) terminal, facing the inlet. The steep roads climbing above Kota lead to the hillside quarters known as Wagom and Puncak, where you’ll find the tourist office and Telkom office, respectively.
Alfa (Jl Cenderawasih; h9am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun) If this warnet in Puncak looks closed during opening hours, try knocking at the shop next door.
Bank Mandiri (Jl Izaak Telussa 26) Change cash and travellers cheques, but be prepared to wait.
Police (Jl Tamburani) Once you arrive, report to this low-key police station, opposite Hotel Sulinah.
Post office (Jl Letjen Haryono)
Telkom (Jl Cenderawasih; h24hr)
Tourist office (Jl Nuri 1; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Stop by for tips from the helpful staff, or a peek at the spectacular view from its balcony.
Sights & Activities
The best excursion is to Pulau Tubir Seram in the harbour. This tiny, uninhabited island is crossed with short walking trails, a huge monument dedicated to former German missionaries with a museum underneath, and superb views. The two-room guesthouse offers absolute seclusion. Before setting out, contact the tourist office about the status of the museum and guesthouse; at the time of writing, both were closed due to lack of funding and interest. You can charter a longboat to the island from Danaweria village, just east of Fak-Fak.
About one hour by chartered boat from Terminal Tamburani, Pulau Panjang features the 1km-long, sandy Pantai Wajob.
Sleeping & Eating
The hotels listed below are all along, or just off, Jl Izaak Telussa.
Hotel Tembagapura (Jl Izaak Telussa 16) It’s central, quiet and often full, and rates include breakfast.
Hotel Sulinah (Jl Tamburani 93) At the western end of the main street, this small family-run place offers clean rooms with shared mandi and the sounds of the call to prayer from the hill above. Breakfast and afternoon tea are included.
Fak-Fak Hotel (Jl Suprapto 9) Priciest rooms have hot water, minibars and balconies with sweet 180-degree ocean views. Breakfast is not included, but you can order meals from the inhouse restaurant.
Hotel Marco Polo (Jl Izaak Telussa 63;) This clean, friendly place is down a steep laneway opposite a mosque. Breakfast is included.
For ocean breezes and excellent ikan bakar (grilled fish) or ayam lalapan (fried chicken with chilli), head for the spit in the inlet known as Jl Baru or Jl Reklamasi. The waterside warungs are open in the evenings only and are most easily reached from the Terminal Tamburani side of the reclaimed road.
Getting There & Away
Merpati flies four days a week to Sorong, and twice a week to Nabire and Biak. The Merpati office (Jl Izaak Telussa 57) is open irregularly.
Every two weeks, the Pelni liner Rinjani sails to Sorong and Ambon, the Doro Londa conveniently links Fak-Fak with the north coast of Papua, and the Sangiang sails down the south coast of Papua. Every four weeks, the Tatamailau and Kelimutu also ply the south coast of Papua and sail the ocean blue to Ambon.
Perintis boats stop at Fak-Fak every two or three weeks during their crawl along the south coast and around southeast Maluku. The port is centrally located at the eastern end of Jl Izaak Telussa, but the Pelni office
(Jl Dl Panjaitan) is not - take a mikrolet.
Getting Around
Tiny Torea airport is on a hillside about 7km from town. From the airport, a chartered mikrolet if there’s no one to share it with you; to the airport, you can usually catch one from Terminal Tamburani or charter one from town. The streets of Fak-Fak are extremely steep, so use mikrolet if you’re straying beyond Kota to the hillside neighbourhoods.
AROUND FAK-FAK
Around the village and beach at Kokas, on the north coast of the peninsula, there is a plethora of Japanese WWII cannons, tunnels and shipwrecks, and a mosque built in 1870. With permission from the tourist office in Fak-Fak, you can stay in the guest-house at Kokas, but watch out for the huge coconut crabs! Mikrolet travel the road from Fak-Fak to Ubadari, from where you can charter a boat to Kokas.
You should also charter a boat from Fak-Fak or Ubadari to inspect the ancient rock paintings along the coast as far as Goras, to explore the Ugar Islands (for diving) or to admire the magnificent Air Terjun Madedred (Madedred Waterfalls).
Those with bronze ambitions can take mikrolet to beaches starting about 1km west of town: Pasir Putih I, II & III all have white sands, azure waters and no crowds on weekdays.
MANOKWARI
The first place in Papua to be settled by missionaries, Manokwari (‘Old Village’ in the Biak language) is a mellow base from which to explore Teluk Cenderawasih. The town is easy to roam around and provides most facilities.
Orientation & Information
Except for the suburb of Wosi to the west, most of Manokwari hugs Teluk Doreri. The eastern side of the bay, simply known as Kota, is a more convenient base than the western (Sanggeng) side.
Bank Mandiri (Jl Yos Sudarso)
BNI bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Merdeka 44) Also has a 24-hour ATM for Visa and MasterCard.
Cenderawasih Bay Marine National Park office (Jl Rendani, Wosi) About 3km west of town, towards the airport.
Flashlink.net (Jl Merdeka 46; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat) Slow internet connection tempered by soothing air-con.
Main post office (Jl Siliwangi 28) Opposite the port; serves your basic needs.
Police station (Jl Bhayangkhara) About 200m east of the port, a surat jalan for surrounding areas is easy to obtain from here.
Telkom Wartel (cnr Jl Merdeka & Jl Kota Baru) Cushy booths in the most convenient place to make a telephone call.
Tourist office (Jl Merdeka; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Worth visiting, especially if you plan to trek around Pegunungan Arfak.
WWF (Jl Rendani, Wosi) Good source of information about Cenderawasih Marine National Park and Pegunungan Arfak.
Sights & Activities
A reasonably flat 2.5km path crosses picturesque Taman Gunung Meja (Table Mountain Park), a protected forest with plenty of bird life and butterflies. Take a taxi to Amban (a pleasant university town) from Terminal Sanggeng, and ask the driver to let you off at the unsigned start to the well-marked trail. The Tugu Jepang (Japanese Monument), 1km before the end of the trail, offers great views, and the path ends behind Hotel Arfak.
Gua Jepang (Japanese Cave) is more of a series of tunnels that was built by the Japanese in WWII. The entrance, which you can look at but not really explore, is along the stone steps leading to Hotel Arfak, between two tennis courts.
Two German missionaries settled on Pulau Mansinam in 1855 and became the first in Papua to spread ‘The Word’. This picturesque island, set majestically in a bay under Pegunungan Arfak, is home to a small village, the ruins of an old church, a memorial to the missionaries, and a pleasant beach. It’s best to report to the kepala desa (village head) before wandering around too far.
Nearby, Pulau Lemon boasts some more beaches, WWII wrecks and spots for snorkelling (bring your own gear), but is smaller, and less enticing and accessible, than Mansinam. A passenger boat from the jetty at Kwawi (accessible via the Pantai Pasir Putih taxis from Terminal Sanggeng) goes to Mansinam three or four times a day. It’s more fun, however, to ask someone in Kwawi to take you in his canoe.
About 5km east of the town centre, Pantai Pasir Putih is a curved bay of white sand and clear water, ideal for swimming and snorkelling (bring your own gear). It’s a little unkempt in parts, but quiet - except on Sunday when half of Manokwari invades the beach. The other half visits Pantai Amban, 3km north of Amban village and 7km north of Manokwari. This black-sand beach is perfect for s urfing and watching the sunset. Taxis leave regularly from Terminal Sanggeng to both Pantai Pasir Putih and Amban village (from where you’ll probably have to walk to the beach).
Tours
The only travel agency in Manokwari is Arfak Paradigalla Tours & Travel. This effusive, one-man out-fit offers tours around Manokwari, as well as bird-watching trips and treks around Pegunungan Arfak and the Anggi lakes.
Sleeping
All hotels listed below include breakfast (and some throw in afternoon tea) in their rates.
Losmen Apose (Jl Kota Baru 4) This is a friendly place opposite the Merpati agency. Rooms vary in quality, so view a few before deciding.
Billy Jaya Hotel (Jl Merdeka 51) Upstairs from Billy Café and its attached travel agency, the clean, cosy, lower-end rooms here are a terrific deal. Woven rattan ceilings, TVs and minibars add to the atmosphere and comfort.
Mutiara Hotel (Jl Yos Sudarso 41) All rooms at the Mutiara have bathroom and satellite TV, and are comfortably outfitted. Garden-view rooms at the back are quieter and actually cheaper than those facing the busy boulevard.
Other accommodation options:
Hotel Arfak (Jl Brawijaya 8) Its decaying colonial shell could use some work, but some rooms are OK for the prices.
Hotel Maluku (Jl Sudirman 52) Central and quiet, and better maintained than the Arfak, but with only squat toilets.
Hotel Mokwam (Jl Merdeka 49) A step up in price and quality is the spacious, friendly Mokwam.
Eating
Hawai Billy Bakery & Coffee Shop (Jl Sudirman 100; breakfast, lunch & dinner) An arm of the Billy empire, this relaxed spot serves espresso and pizza and features a wall of house-baked pastries.
Billy Café (Jl Merdeka 51; lunch & dinner) The English menu details a few Western selections like ham- burgers, but you’re better off with the Indonesian or Chinese food. The main dining room blasts air-conditioning (good) and karaoke (bad).
Abressio Café (Jl Merdeka 87; lunch & dinner) Popular among locals because it’s the only joint in Manokwari that serves beer. Try the excellent sweet-and-sour fish with julienned veggies.
Mutiara Hotel Restaurant (Jl Yos Sudarso 41; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This classy restaurant with attentive service features live music most evenings - nonguests can come here for tasty, Western-style breakfasts.
Getting There & Away
Every week, Merpati flies four times to Sorong and Jayapura, and three times to Biak. There are also four weekly flights to Jakarta, Makassar, Manado and Surabaya. Book at the flighty Merpati office (Jl Kota Baru 17;h8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat, 5.30-8pm Sun) and bring a bucket-load of patience.
In contrast to Merpati, the tranquil Garuda office (Jl Kota Baru; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat,
5.30-8pm Sun) next door sells tickets for flights to/from Biak. Local travel agents can also sell Batavia Air tickets for the four-weekly flights to Jakarta, Jayapura and Makassar.
Manokwari is a stop on the two-weekly run along the north coast to Sorong, Biak and Serui on the Pelni liners Ciremai, Dobonsolo, Doro Londa and Nggapulu. Opposite the port, the Pelni office (Jl Siliwangi 24) sells tickets for all major boats.
Getting Around
Rendani airport is a 10-minute drive west of the town centre. Charter a taxi or ojek. Otherwise, walk straight outside the airport terminal and catch a public taxi to Terminal Wosi, another to Terminal Sanggeng and, if necessary, another to your hotel.
From Terminal Wosi, about 4km west of Manokwari, public taxis regularly leave for the airport and larger towns, such as Ransiki. From Terminal Sanggeng (in Manokwari), taxis link both sides of Teluk Doreri every nanosecond, and regularly depart for nearby beaches.
Yellow-helmeted ojek drivers hang around the taxi terminals and scoot along the main streets.
PEGUNUNGAN ARFAK & ANGGI LAKES
In Pegunungan Arfak, at an elevation of 2030m, are the Anggi Lakes: Danau Giji (29 sq km) and Danau Gita (24.5 sq km). These clear and deep lakes offer exquisite scenery and wildlife, as well as excellent hiking and swimming. Another reason to visit is to meet the traditional Manikom and Hatam people.
The two- or three-day trek to the lakes from Ransiki follows Sungai Momi to Siwi, and involves some climbing and hiking along muddy trails. A guide is essential - ask the district office in Ransiki. You can sleep in local huts along the way, or the district office in Anggi can arrange accommodation. You should bring your own food, though you can buy vegetables along the way.
This trek can be done independently (with a guide), though Arfak Paradigalla Tours & Travel in Manokwari also can organise treks between Ransiki and the lakes.
RANSIKI
Crowded taxis (three hours) leave every hour or so from Terminal Wosi in Manokwari for the pleasant transmigrasi town of Ransiki. It’s a rough trip - and often impassable during the wet season (November to March) - but the scenery through the jungle, along the coast and among traditional villages is superb. Even if you’re not going to the Anggi lakes, the trip to Ransiki is still worthwhile.
There’s a small guesthouse next to the Telkom office in Ransiki, which is especially useful if you’re trekking to the Anggi lakes or visiting Pulau Rumberpon.
CENDERAWASIH BAY MARINE NATIONAL PARK
This reserve (Taman Laut Teluk Cenderawasih) consists of 18 islands and 500km of coastline, and at 14,300 sq km is the largest of its kind in Indonesia. It’s home to endangered species of giant clams, turtles and dugongs, and offers some of the best trekking, diving (130 types of coral) and bird-watching (150 bird species) imaginable. Like most of Papua, however, exploration is severely hindered by government travel regulations and a lack of transport.
The larger inhabited islands in the area are Rumberpon, Mioswaar, Roon and Angrameos. You can explore the coastline or islands by speedboat from either Nabire or Ransiki, or base yourself on Pulau Rumberpon or at Wasior (though neither is strictly within the park). Otherwise, organise a tour with Arfak Paradigalla Tours & Travel in Manokwari.
Before venturing into the reserve independently, permission and advice should be obtained from the Cenderawasih Bay Marine National Park office (Jl Rendani, Wosi) in Manokwari.
Pulau Rumberpon
This island offers snorkelling among superb coral and marine life, and outstanding hiking. It’s also worthwhile chartering a boat to nearby islands such as Pulau Wairondi, with its untouched population of t urtles, and Pulau Auri.
If you ask the village head on Rumberpon, you should be able to camp on the beach for a few days (bring your own tent and cooking gear) or stay in a village hut. It’s also worth checking with the tourist office in Manokwari about other accommodation possibilities on the island.
Public speedboats (about two hours) leave Ransiki for Rumberpon most days.
Wasior
From Wasior, you can charter a boat to islands in the marine reserve or organize a trek in the Wondiwoi Mountain Reserve (Taman Pegunungan Wondiwoi), home to more than 100 species of birds. There’s no official accommodation in Wasior, but finding somewhere to stay should not be any problem. Check with the tourist office in Manokwari that your surat jalan covers this area. Merpati flies twice a week to Wasior for about the same cost as the over-night ferries, that travel daily between the Manokwari port and Wasior.
